On the eastern shore of Pašman, where the pine forest almost touches the sea, lie the remains of a forgotten story. Five stone huts, overgrown with moss and enveloped in the scent of resin, silently bear witness to a time when salt was more precious than silver. While most tourists rush toward the beaches, these abandoned salt works patiently await those who know how to pause and listen.
Why Did Pašman Have Salt Works?
Before you set out in search of this stone treasure, it's worth understanding why they came to exist at all. The Pašman Channel, sheltered from strong winds yet exposed to the summer sun, created ideal conditions for salt production. From the 15th century until the mid-20th century, local inhabitants collected seawater in shallow pools and waited for the sun to do its work.
Salt wasn't merely a seasoning. It was currency, a preservative, a symbol of wealth. Families who owned salt works enjoyed respect in the community, and their stone huts – where tools were kept and salt was sheltered from rain – were every salt worker's pride.
Five Salt Huts You Must See
1. The Hut in Soline Cove
The best preserved of all, this hut is located just above the cove of the same name, about fifteen minutes' walk from the village of Dobropoljana. You'll recognize it by its characteristic stone threshold which, believe it or not, is still in place. Walls nearly half a meter thick speak of builders who knew that salt must stay dry at all costs.
Practical tip: You can reach Soline Cove via a gravel road from Dobropoljana. Parking is available along the road, and the walk through the pine forest takes about 15 minutes at a leisurely pace. Bring water – in the shade of the pines, it's easy to forget how fierce the sun can be.
2. The Twin Huts at Borovnjak Point
These two huts, barely ten meters apart from each other, probably belonged to the same family. Local legend says that the Marinović brothers divided their father's salt works but refused to share a hut. Today their roofs are gone, but the walls still defy time.
How to get there: Borovnjak Point is located between Neviđane and Dobropoljana. Follow the marked coastal hiking trail – the huts are hidden about thirty meters from the sea, among dense pines. Without GPS coordinates, they're easy to miss, so be attentive: look for a place where the ground rises slightly and where you notice more regularly arranged stones.
3. The "Under the Pine" Hut
Locals simply call it "under the pine" because a century-old Aleppo pine grows from its foundation. Nature has definitely conquered architecture here, but it's precisely this symbiosis that makes it special. The roots have pushed apart the stones, yet the hut hasn't collapsed – as if the tree and stone agreed on coexistence.
This hut is on private land, but the owners – a family from Tkon – gladly allow visitors to explore it. Simply ask at the local tavern "Kod Ante" who the owner is and how to get there.
4. The Hut Above Čelinjak Cove
The smallest of all, but with the most beautiful view. This hut, measuring barely 2x3 meters, probably served as shelter for a single salt worker and his tools. From its threshold, the view stretches across the channel all the way to Velebit, and the sunsets from here belong to those who don't photograph them – they just watch.
Best time to visit: May or September, late afternoon. Avoid July and August – the heat in the pine forest without wind can be unbearable.
5. The Ruins in Ždrelac
Technically, this is no longer a hut but rather the remains of a foundation and one surprisingly preserved window frame. Yet it's precisely this fragmented state that hints at the size of the original structure. This was the largest salt hut on Pašman, connected to salt production for the monastery on nearby Ćokovac.
Ždrelac is now connected by ferry to Biograd, making this location the most accessible for day-trippers. From the ferry landing, a ten-minute walk along the sea leads to the ruins.
What to Bring and How to Prepare
Exploring abandoned salt works isn't a demanding undertaking, but it requires some preparation:
- Footwear: Closed shoes with sturdy soles. The terrain is uneven, and pine needles can be slippery.
- Water and snacks: There are no cafés or shops in this part of the island. Bring at least one liter of water per person.
- Sun protection: Hat and sunscreen are mandatory, even in the shade of the pines.
- Camera or notebook: These sites aren't marked with plaques. Your photographs and notes may one day become part of documentation that locals still haven't created.
Where to Stay and What Else to See
Pašman offers a peaceful alternative to overbooked Zadar. In the villages of Tkon, Neviđane, and Dobropoljana, you'll find authentic stone houses converted into comfortable apartments. The island's intimacy – without large hotels and nightclubs – attracts those seeking respite from noise.
If you're staying longer, dedicate a day to the Benedictine monastery of St. Cosmas and Damian on Ćokovac hill. The view from there encompasses the entire Pašman Channel, and the monks still produce medicinal herbs according to old recipes. Soline Beach – the same one above which stands the first hut on our list – has sand that's rare for this area and shallow water ideal for children.
For dinner, the tavern "Gušti" in Tkon serves an unforgettable octopus salad, while "Kod Ante" in Neviđane has pašticada like generations before us used to eat.
Let's Preserve What Remains
These five huts aren't protected as cultural heritage. There are no signs, fences, or admission tickets. It's precisely this informal accessibility that makes them special – but also vulnerable. If you visit them, please: don't remove stones, don't carve initials, don't leave trash.
These structures have survived centuries. They deserve to survive us too.
Pašman isn't an island that shouts. It whispers. And its abandoned salt works whisper a story about people who extracted white gold from the sea, about families who lived for generations on sun and patience. That story awaits you among the pines, if you're ready to listen.