Picture this: you're cycling through the complete darkness of a century-old tunnel, and at the exit, a view of sun-drenched Istrian hills awaits you. Ahead of you winds a track that trains haven't touched in decades, and around you - absolute silence broken only by birdsong and the rustle of wind through the pines.
The abandoned railway lines of Istria are now a paradise for adventurous cyclists. These historic routes from the Austro-Hungarian era have been transformed into unique cycling trails that pass through tunnels, across viaducts, and through the most beautiful parts of the Istrian peninsula. Prepare yourself for a journey through time - and one of the most unusual cycling experiences in Croatia.
A Brief History of Istrian Railways
Before you start pedaling, it's worth knowing the story behind these routes. Istria was crisscrossed by numerous railway lines in the late 19th and early 20th centuries - an ambitious project of the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy connecting ports, mines, and towns across the peninsula.
The Parenzana railway, perhaps the most famous among them, carried passengers from Trieste to Poreč between 1902 and 1935. When the trains stopped running, nature slowly reclaimed its own - but the tracks, tunnels, and viaducts remained as silent witnesses to the past. Today, these "iron dinosaurs" have been given new life as cycling trails that attract thousands of visitors annually.
5 Unforgettable Cycling Routes
1. Parenzana: The Legend Among Routes
Length: 123 km (from Trieste to Poreč, Croatian section approximately 78 km)
Difficulty: Medium
Number of tunnels: 9 on the Croatian section
Parenzana is the queen of Istrian cycling routes, and for good reason. This trail passes through nine tunnels and several viaducts, winding through the Istrian interior from Buje toward Poreč. The most attractive section is around Grožnjan - an artistic hilltop town where you can take a break with local wine and truffles.
Practical tip: Start in Livade near Motovun early in the morning. Parking is free, and from there you can ride toward Grožnjan (easier direction, mostly downhill) or Motovun (more challenging). Be sure to bring a flashlight for the tunnels - some are longer than 500 meters and completely dark.
2. Lupoglav - Raša Route: Industrial Heritage
Length: 22 km
Difficulty: Easy to medium
Number of tunnels: 3
Less known but equally fascinating, this route follows the old railway that once transported coal from the Raša mines. It passes through three tunnels and offers spectacular views of Čepić Field - the largest plain in Istria.
Finishing in Raša, a town built in fascist style in 1936, provides a unique opportunity for urban exploration. The architecture is unusual and somewhat eerie - a perfect contrast to the natural beauty of the route.
Where to stop: Konoba Mondo in Kršan offers phenomenal fuži with truffles. Main course prices range from around 12-18 euros.
3. Kanfanar - Rovinj: From Hills to Sea
Length: 15 km
Difficulty: Easy
Number of tunnels: 1
An ideal route for families and beginners. It descends from Kanfanar toward Rovinj, which means most of the way is downhill - or at least flat. It passes through one shorter tunnel and ends just 2 km from the center of Rovinj, one of the most photogenic towns on the Mediterranean.
Accommodation tip: Book an apartment in the Kanfanar area for an authentic Istrian experience. Morning start from the interior, cycle to Rovinj, swimming, lunch by the sea - and return by taxi or a friend with a car. A perfect day.
4. Lim Bay Viaduct: Panoramic Adventure
Length: 8 km (part of a wider route)
Difficulty: Medium
Special feature: View of Lim Channel
This shorter section is part of a wider network, but deserves special attention due to the stunning view of Lim Channel from the remains of the old viaduct. Photos from here look like they're from Switzerland, except you're - on the Adriatic.
The combination of the sharp blue sea below and the greenery of the hills around you creates a scene that's hard to forget. The best time for photography is late afternoon when the sun illuminates the channel at the ideal angle.
5. Buzet - Roč Trail: Through the Heart of Truffle Country
Length: 12 km
Difficulty: Easy to medium
Number of tunnels: 2
This route passes through the heart of Istria's truffle country. Two tunnels, gentle ascents and descents, and the constant scent of pines and Mediterranean vegetation. Roč is a tiny town with fewer than 200 inhabitants, but with a thousand-year history and Glagolitic heritage.
Best period: September and October, during truffle season. Combine your ride with a visit to Truffle Days in Buzet or Livade.
Practical Guide to Cycling Abandoned Railways
What to Bring
- Flashlight or headlamp - absolutely essential for tunnels
- Light jacket - temperatures in tunnels can drop by up to 10 degrees
- Enough water - there are no springs on most routes
- Basic repair tools and a spare tube
- Snacks - distances between settlements can be significant
Bike Rental
If you haven't brought your own bike, don't worry. In Poreč, Rovinj, Buzet, and Motovun there are numerous rent-a-bike shops. Prices range from 15 to 25 euros per day for a quality trekking bike. Electric bikes, ideal for routes with more climbing, cost 35-50 euros per day.
Best Time to Visit
Avoid July and August - the heat in the interior can be unbearable, and tunnels become a popular "cooling station" for all tourists. Ideal months are May, June, September, and October - moderate temperatures, fewer crowds, and autumn colors make the landscape additionally spectacular.
Where to Stay for the Perfect Cycling Base
The Istrian interior offers a wide selection of accommodation - from luxury villas with pools to rustic stone houses in the heart of villages. For cycling adventures, the ideal base is in the Motovun - Grožnjan - Buzet triangle. From there, you can reach all the main routes within about 20 minutes by car.
The advantage of accommodation in the interior? Prices are lower than on the coast, and the experience is more authentic. Dinner at a local konoba, morning coffee on an empty square, the sound of bells from the church tower - this is the Istria that beach tourists never get to know.
Conclusion: More Than Just Cycling
The abandoned railway lines of Istria are not just a sports attraction. They are a journey through time, geography, and the cultures that shaped this peninsula. Every tunnel you pass through will tell you a story of miners, travelers, and dreams of a connected Istria.
When you emerge from the darkness of a tunnel on the other side and see sun-drenched olive groves and vineyards, you'll understand why these routes are called the most beautiful in Croatia. These aren't empty words - it's simply a truth you must experience on your own pedals.