In the midst of the intricate labyrinth of Kornati, on islets where only rare sailors and the occasional curious kayaker dock today, stand silent stone witnesses of an almost forgotten story. Abandoned quarantine stations for sea sponges – five stone drying houses scattered across the archipelago – preserve the memory of a time when Adriatic sponges were the soft gold of the Mediterranean.
When Sponges Were Worth More Than Fish
It's hard to imagine today, but in the late 19th and early 20th century, Adriatic sea sponges fetched prices that surpassed the catch of the most prized fish. Soft, durable, and naturally antibacterial, Kornati sponges were exported to Viennese bathrooms, Parisian perfumeries, and London hospitals.
But sponges were delicate merchandise. Freshly pulled from the sea, they had to undergo a strict process of drying and disinfection before heading to European metropolises. And this is precisely where our stone drying houses enter the scene – quarantine stations that ensured only the highest quality specimens left Kornati.
Five Stone Drying Houses: Where to Find Them
1. The Drying House on Lavsa
The largest and best-preserved drying house is located on the island of Lavsa, in the bay of the same name which is a popular anchorage point today. The stone structure with characteristic ventilation openings stands just fifty meters from the sea. Local fishermen say that up to 500 sponges were dried here at once.
Tip for visitors: Lavsa bay has several konobas (taverns) that operate only in summer. Mooring is free if you dine at the konoba – be sure to try the eel brudet (stew).
2. The Small Drying House on Piškera
On Piškera, a former settlement of sponge fishermen, stands a smaller drying house integrated into the remains of a fishing village. This is the only location where you can see a drying house in the context of an entire settlement – with water cisterns, house ruins, and an old pier.
Don't miss: The cistern on Piškera still collects rainwater. Old sailors know that this is one of the rare places in Kornati where you can replenish your fresh water supplies.
3. The Drying House on Smokvica Vela
The most mysterious of all five. The drying house on Smokvica Vela is located on the inaccessible eastern side of the island, far from usual nautical routes. It's built from more roughly hewn stone, suggesting it may be the oldest in the archipelago.
Access: This drying house is best reached by kayak from Lojena bay on Levrnaka. Count on an hour and a half of paddling one way – but only in calm seas!
4. The Ruins on Kornat Island
On the main island of Kornat, north of Šipnate bay, lie the ruins of what was probably the largest quarantine station in the archipelago. Today only the foundations and one preserved wall are visible, but the dimensions reveal the industrial scale of the operation.
Interesting fact: According to records from the Murter archives, only women worked here – considered more patient for the delicate work of sorting and drying sponges.
5. The Double Drying House on Žut
The island of Žut hides a unique example – a double drying house with separate rooms for different processing stages. The first room was used for rinsing sponges in seawater, the second for drying on airy stone shelves.
Accommodation nearby: There are several Robinson Crusoe-style houses for rent on Žut. For those who want to explore the drying house without rushing, this is an ideal base. Through the BarbaBooking platform, you can find authentic stone cottages with sea access – many of them built from the same stone as the old drying houses.
Why Were the Drying Houses Abandoned?
The collapse of the Adriatic sponge industry was swift and merciless. In the 1930s, disease decimated the sponge population throughout the Mediterranean. At the same time, cheap synthetic alternatives appeared, and two world wars finished off what little remained of the trade.
By the 1950s, the drying houses were already abandoned. Sponge fishermen were replaced by tourist skippers, and the only reminders of former glory today are these stone structures and the occasional sponge that local divers still pull up for personal use.
How to Visit the Drying Houses
Kornati is a national park, which means you need a ticket to enter. A daily ticket for sailors costs around 30 euros per person (2024), while organized trips from Murter or Biograd include tickets in the price.
Best time to visit: May, June, and September. Avoid August – crowds are large, and prices in konobas are steep.
Organized trips: If you don't have your own boat, the best option is day trips from Murter, Biograd, or Šibenik. Some include a tour of the drying houses as part of the program – inquire in advance as not all agencies are familiar with these locations.
Kayak tours: For the most authentic experience, multi-day kayak expeditions through Kornati offer the opportunity to visit even the most remote drying houses. Camping is permitted at designated sites, and a night under the stars in Kornati is an unforgettable experience.
Accommodation for Kornati Heritage Explorers
For thorough exploration of the drying houses, we recommend a base in Murter, Biograd, or on Žut itself. Murter offers the best balance of price and proximity – from its harbor to the first drying houses takes less than an hour.
On BarbaBooking.com, find apartments and houses in Murter with boat berths, which is ideal if you're planning a multi-day exploration of the archipelago. Some hosts also offer their own boats for rent – perfect for families who want to explore Kornati at their own pace.
Before You Go
The Kornati drying houses are not protected monuments, but they deserve our respect. Don't leave trash, don't remove stones, and don't light fires nearby. These structures have survived more than a century of Adriatic storms – let's help them see the next one.
And remember: every drying house has its story. Ask local fishermen, waiters, or skippers – there's always someone whose ancestors dried sponges within these same stone walls. Those stories are worth more than any guidebook.