On the island of Rab, hidden deep within the centuries-old oak forest of Dundovo, lies one of the most unusual historical landmarks of the Croatian Adriatic. Five stone pools, overgrown with moss and surrounded by ancient oaks, bear witness to a time when this peaceful corner served as a quarantine station for sea turtles. Few people know about this place, and it is precisely this secrecy that makes it even more precious.
A History Almost Forgotten
At the end of the 19th century, Rab was part of the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy, and the Adriatic Sea was teeming with merchant ships. Sea turtles, particularly loggerhead turtles (Caretta caretta), often ended up in fishing nets or were injured by ship propellers. The Austrian authorities, surprisingly progressive for their time, established quarantine stations along the coast to care for injured animals before returning them to the sea.
The Rab station was built around 1880 at a specially chosen location. The Dundovo oak forest provided natural shade and protection from the strong summer sun, while the proximity to the sea enabled easy transport of turtles. Five pools were carved into the stone - each of different sizes, adapted to different stages of animal recovery.
Why an Oak Forest?
The choice of location was not accidental. Rab's oak forest is one of the best preserved in the Mediterranean, with ancient trees providing constant shade. The water temperature in the stone pools remained stable even during the hottest summer days - ideal conditions for the recovery of turtles, for whom overheating can be fatal.
Five Pools - Five Stages of Recovery
Each of the five pools had a specific purpose, and this thoughtful organization reveals how seriously the caretakers of that time approached animal care:
- First pool (smallest) - used for isolation of newly arrived turtles and assessment of their condition
- Second pool - intended for turtles with minor injuries that required rest
- Third pool (central) - the largest of all, used for long-term recovery
- Fourth pool - a shallower pool for turtles in the final phase of rehabilitation
- Fifth pool - the so-called "freedom pool" where turtles spent their last days before returning to the sea
Today, the pools are filled with rainwater and fallen leaves, but their structure has remained surprisingly well preserved. The stone edges, smoothed by time and former turtles, still bear traces of iron clamps that were used to secure protective nets.
How to Find This Hidden Place
The path to the quarantine pools leads through the Dundovo forest, one of the most beautiful walking trails on Rab. Start from the town of Rab towards Camp Padova, then follow the marked hiking trail "Dundovo Forest". After approximately 25 minutes of walking through the shade of centuries-old oaks, you will come across a small clearing where the pools are located.
Practical tips for visiting:
- The best time to visit is early morning or late afternoon when the light is soft and ideal for photography
- Bring good footwear - the trail is uneven in places and can be slippery after rain
- Take water and a light snack with you - there are no catering facilities nearby
- The entire tour takes about an hour and a half to two hours, including time for sightseeing
Best Time of Year to Visit
Spring (April and May) and early autumn (September and October) are ideal for this adventure. The forest is particularly magical then - illuminated by wildflowers in spring, and colored in warm shades of gold and red in autumn. Walking in summer is also pleasant thanks to the dense oak canopy, but temperatures can be high.
What Else to Visit Nearby
While exploring this part of Rab, take the opportunity to visit nearby attractions:
Sahara Beach (Lopar) - perhaps the most famous sandy beach on the Adriatic, only 15 minutes away by car. Shallow water and fine sand make it perfect for families with children.
Old Town Rab - four bell towers of Rab's churches form the recognizable silhouette of the town. Stroll through medieval streets and stop for lunch at taverns offering freshly caught fish and homemade Rab cake.
Grgur - Uninhabited Island - for those seeking adventure, trips depart from Lopar to this wild island with untouched nature and remains of Roman villas.
Accommodation on Rab - Where to Stay
The island of Rab offers a wide selection of accommodation for all tastes and budgets. Apartments in the town of Rab are ideal for those who want a combination of history and beaches, while accommodation in Lopar suits families looking for sandy beaches and a quieter atmosphere. If you plan to explore the interior of the island, including the hidden pools in Dundovo forest, consider accommodation in Supetarska Draga - a peaceful place perfectly situated for excursions in both directions.
Turtles Today - Continuation of the Story
Although the quarantine pools on Rab were abandoned long ago, care for sea turtles in the Adriatic has not ceased. Today, a sea turtle rescue center operates at Aquarium Pula, where injured loggerhead turtles are treated with modern methods. However, the Rab pools remain a touching reminder of pioneering conservation efforts - at a time when most of the world had not yet thought about animal protection.
Next time you are on Rab, set aside two hours and step into the Dundovo oak forest. Among the centuries-old trees and moss-covered stone pools, you will feel a connection with a past that was surprisingly caring towards the oldest inhabitants of our seas.
And who knows - perhaps on your way back, swimming in the warm Rab sea, you might spot a loggerhead turtle calmly passing by you. Its ancestors may have once recovered in those very stone pools hidden in the shade of the oaks.