On the southern side of Hvar Island, hidden in coves where the sea crashes against the rocks, stand silent witnesses to a time when tuna swam the Adriatic in dense schools. Abandoned tuna traps – massive stone structures from which fishermen watched for and caught blue fish – are today fascinating ruins that offer a unique blend of history, architecture, and breathtakingly beautiful views.
While most tourists rush toward beaches and cocktail bars, these stone tuna traps await those willing to work up a sweat on hiking trails. The reward? An encounter with authentic Mediterranean heritage you won't find in any museum.
What exactly are tuna traps and why do they matter?
Tuna traps (Italian tonnare) were sophisticated tuna fishing systems that combined stone watchtowers, nets set in the sea, and precise coordination of dozens of fishermen. On Hvar, they operated from the 16th to the mid-20th century, with some catching up to several thousand tuna annually.
The principle was simple but ingenious: from a lookout point high on the cliff, a watchman would observe the sea for hours, waiting for the characteristic churning of the surface that betrays a school of tuna. When he spotted fish, he would signal with whistles or flags to fishermen in boats who would then encircle the school with nets.
Today, tuna have almost disappeared from the Adriatic, and with them this ancient craft. Only the stone watchtowers remain – silent, but incredibly photogenic.
5 tuna traps worth visiting
1. Zaraće Cove Tuna Trap – easiest access
Just 4 kilometers east of Hvar town center, in Zaraće Malo cove, lies a tuna trap ideal for beginners. A well-marked trail leads to it from the parking area, and the walk takes about twenty minutes.
Practical information:
- Starting point: parking above Zaraće cove (free off-season)
- Duration: 20-25 minutes one way
- Difficulty: easy, gentle ascent
- Best time: early morning or late afternoon
This tuna trap has a preserved watchtower offering views of Jerolim islet and the Pakleni Islands. After exploring, reward yourself with a swim at the pebble beach in the cove.
2. Pelegrin Tuna Trap – most photogenic
Located on Cape Pelegrin, southwest of the village of Sveta Nedjelja, this tuna trap looks like it stepped out of a period film. The stone tower juts above steep cliffs, and the sunset from here simply takes your breath away.
Practical information:
- Starting point: Sveta Nedjelja village (has several restaurants)
- Duration: 40-50 minutes one way
- Difficulty: moderately difficult, steep sections
- Essential: good footwear, water, sun protection
Sveta Nedjelja is known for excellent wines, so after your hike stop by one of the taverns for a glass of plavac mali. Accommodation in this peaceful village is ideal for those wanting to escape Hvar's crowds.
3. Dubovica Tuna Trap – combining beach and history
Dubovica cove is one of the most beautiful on the island, and few people know that above it stands an abandoned tuna trap. Here you can combine swimming on white pebbles with exploring stone ruins.
Practical information:
- Starting point: Hvar-Stari Grad road, marked parking
- Duration: 15 minutes to the beach + 30 minutes to the tuna trap
- Difficulty: moderate (steep trail to the tuna trap)
- Special feature: restaurant on the beach (open June-September)
If you plan to spend the day in this cove, an apartment in nearby Stari Grad makes an excellent base – the town is only a 15-minute drive away and offers good restaurants and a more relaxed atmosphere than Hvar town.
4. Milna Tuna Trap – for true adventurers
This is a tuna trap for those who love challenges. Located on the remote southern cape of the island, it requires serious preparation, but in return offers complete solitude and the feeling of true discovery.
Practical information:
- Starting point: Milna village (southern side of the island)
- Duration: 1.5 hours one way
- Difficulty: challenging, unmarked trail
- Essential: GPS app, plenty of water, a companion
Don't go alone and definitely let someone know where you're going. The trail isn't officially maintained, but experienced hikers will be thrilled by the wild landscape.
5. Velo Grablje Tuna Trap – best preserved
Near the abandoned village of Velo Grablje, which is itself a fascinating destination, lies one of the best-preserved tuna traps on the island. The village was once a center of lavender production, and today only two people live there.
Practical information:
- Starting point: Brusje village or Malo Grablje
- Duration: 45 minutes from Brusje
- Difficulty: moderate
- Special feature: can be combined with a visit to the abandoned village
At the end of June, Velo Grablje hosts a lavender harvest festival – the only day of the year when the village comes alive again.
Practical tips for exploring tuna traps
When to go?
The ideal period is May, June, or September. July and August are too hot for multi-hour walks, and accommodation prices on Hvar peak then as well. Spring brings wildflowers and pleasant temperatures, while early autumn offers calm seas for swimming after your hike.
What to bring?
- Footwear: hiking boots or sturdy sneakers (flip-flops are absolutely forbidden!)
- Water: minimum 1.5 liters per person
- Protection: hat, sunscreen, sunglasses
- Food: fruit, nuts, sandwiches
- Equipment: charged phone battery, offline maps
Where to stay?
For exploring tuna traps, I recommend accommodation outside Hvar town center. Stari Grad offers a more authentic atmosphere and lower prices, while Sveta Nedjelja and Milna are ideal for those wanting to be close to the southern coast and its hidden coves.
Apartments with parking are almost essential since public transport doesn't cover all starting points.
A forgotten craft that deserves to be remembered
Walking toward these stone structures, try to imagine the lives of fishermen who spent hours, days, and weeks here waiting for tuna. Without mobile phones, air conditioning, cold drinks – just the sea, the wind, and hope that a school would appear.
Tuna traps aren't just ruins. They're a reminder of a time when people lived to the rhythm of the sea, when patience was a virtue, and when one school of tuna could feed an entire village for months.
Visit them while you still can – before the bora wind and the ravages of time completely swallow them.