When you first spot these stone structures in the middle of a sea of purple lavender, you think you've wandered into another dimension. Abandoned, overgrown with wild herbs, with collapsed roofs through which sunlight breaks in – Hvar's fig drying houses are stories in themselves. Stories that most tourists will never hear because they simply don't know where to look.
What exactly are quarantine fig drying houses?
During the 19th and early 20th century, Hvar was one of the most important exporters of dried figs in Europe. But this delicious Mediterranean fruit had one flaw – it easily transmitted various diseases and pests. The solution? Quarantine drying houses – stone buildings where figs were dried and then kept in isolation before export.
These structures were deliberately built far from settlements, most often in the middle of fields, on elevated positions where air circulation was optimal. Today on Hvar, you can find them exactly where no one looks – hidden among lavender, olive trees, and the wild herbs of Hvar's interior.
Five drying houses worth visiting
1. The drying house in Plame field above Stari Grad
The most easily accessible and also the best preserved. A gravel road leads to it from Stari Grad toward the island's interior – about 3 kilometers on foot or 10 minutes by car on an uneven road. The building is impressive: stone walls almost a meter thick, remnants of the wooden drying structure still visible inside.
Practical tip: Combine your visit with a tour of the UNESCO-protected Stari Grad Plain. Park at Plame field and continue on foot. Bring water – there's no shade.
2. The double drying house near Vrisnik
The only drying house on Hvar with two separate compartments – it was probably used by two families who shared the construction costs. It's located about fifteen minutes' walk from the village of Vrisnik, through lavender fields that are simply spectacular in June and July.
Best time to visit: Mid-June, when the lavender blooms and tourists haven't yet flooded the island. Photos by this drying house look surreal.
3. The ruin above Jelsa – roofless, but with a view
This drying house lost its roof back in the 1960s, but that's exactly what gives it special charm. The stone walls frame the sky, and the view stretches all the way to the sea. It's located an hour's walk from Jelsa, on the trail leading toward the peak of St. Nicholas.
Note: The path isn't marked. I recommend GPS coordinates: 43.1642° N, 16.7018° E. Or better yet – ask the local elderly residents in Jelsa. Most of them remember these drying houses from their childhood.
4. The hidden drying house in Zaraće
The smallest of all five, but somehow the most authentic. The walls are still solid, and inside you'll notice remnants of stone shelves where figs were arranged. Zaraće is anyway a beautiful cove with crystal-clear sea, so you can visit this drying house as a bonus after swimming.
Combination for a perfect day: Swimming in Zaraće in the morning, lunch at Kod Barba Luke tavern (order the octopus gregada), then a short afternoon climb to the drying house when the sun eases up a bit.
5. The neglected drying house on the way to Humac
The largest and most mysterious. The two-story construction suggests it served for storage as well, not just drying. It's located halfway between Jelsa and Humac, approximately 200 meters from the road, hidden among pine trees and olive groves.
Interesting fact: Humac residents say that this drying house hid partisans in its cellars during World War II. Figs were no longer a priority then.
Why are these buildings falling into disrepair?
The answer is simple, yet sad. The export of dried figs collapsed in the mid-20th century when cheaper producers from Turkey and North Africa took over the market. The drying houses were left without purpose, and the owners' descendants long ago moved to Split, Zagreb, or further away.
Today these buildings sit on private land, often with unclear ownership relations. Renovation is expensive, and institutional interest in protection is virtually nonexistent. Every year another drying house loses part of its roof, another wall collapses.
How to visit the drying houses responsibly
These buildings aren't tourist attractions in the classic sense. There are no tickets, guides, or parking lots. That's exactly why they should be visited with respect:
- Don't enter if the structure looks unsafe – photograph from outside
- Don't take stones as souvenirs – every stone is part of the story
- Don't leave trash – carry out everything you bring in
- Respect private property – if you encounter locals, politely ask if it's okay to take photos
Accommodation on Hvar: A base for exploring the interior
Most tourists stay in Hvar town or Jelsa, but for exploring the drying houses and Hvar's interior, I recommend villages like Vrisnik, Svirče, or Vrbanj. Here you'll find authentic stone houses converted into apartments, far from the crowds, with views of lavender fields.
On BarbaBooking.com you have an excellent selection of accommodation in exactly these lesser-known parts of Hvar – from rustic stone houses to modern apartments with pools. The advantage? Prices are significantly lower than on the coast, and the experience is incomparably more authentic.
When to visit Hvar for this adventure?
The ideal time is May or September. The temperature is pleasant for walking (25-28°C), there are fewer tourists, and the lavender fields in May are just beginning to bloom. Avoid July and August – the heat in the island's interior reaches 40°C, and walking on gravel without shade becomes torture.
Autumn has a special charm – olive harvest, scents of Mediterranean herbs, empty roads. And perhaps in one of these drying houses, as the sun sets through the collapsed roof, you'll feel why people once spent entire days here waiting for the figs to become perfect.
No one dries those figs anymore. But the stone walls still remember.