Fog descends over the hills, a dog nervously sniffs the damp earth, and you hold your breath waiting for that moment – when the Lagotto Romagnolo starts digging. Somewhere beneath the leaves, hidden in the oak roots, lies the black gold of Istria. Winter truffle hunting in Motovun isn't just an activity – it's an immersion into a centuries-old tradition passed down from generation to generation.
Why Motovun in Winter?
While most tourists visit Istria in summer, true connoisseurs know that winter is the most authentic time for this region. From November to March, Istrian forests reveal their most precious secret – the white truffle (Tuber magnatum Pico), the most expensive mushroom in the world. A kilogram can fetch a price of 3,000 to 5,000 euros, and the Motovun Forest is one of the rare locations on the planet where it grows.
But it's not all about the price. In winter, Motovun exudes a special tranquility – tourist crowds disappear, local waiters have time for conversation, and temperatures of 5 to 12 degrees Celsius are perfect for hours-long walks through the forest.
5 Family Hunts You Can Join
1. The Karlic Family – Four Generations of Tradition
Ivan Karlic has been hunting truffles since he was seven years old. Today, in his sixties, he guides visitors through the Motovun Forest with his Labrador Bruno. The hunt lasts about three hours and includes a tasting of freshly grated truffles on warm homemade eggs.
Price: 80 euros per person (minimum 2 people)
Contact: Reservation 48 hours in advance, available from November to March
Special feature: Ivan speaks Italian and English, and his wife prepares homemade rakija for the end of the hunt
2. Tartufarna Zigante – For Those Who Want Everything in One Place
Giancarlo Zigante is a legend of Istrian truffle hunting – in 1999, he found the largest white truffle in the world (1.31 kg), recorded in the Guinness Book of Records. His truffle farm offers organized hunts with professional guides and trained dogs.
Price: 120 euros per person, includes lunch at Restaurant Zigante
Duration: 4-5 hours (hunt + meal)
Special feature: Lunch includes a truffle menu with fuži, steak with truffles, and truffle ice cream
3. The Prodan Family – Authentic Experience Without the Glamour
If you're looking for a raw, non-touristy experience, the Prodan family from the village of Livade is the right address. Darko Prodan doesn't speak English, but his son Mateo translates. With them, there are no fancy presentations – just you, the dog Nero, the forest, and silence.
Price: 50 euros per person
Duration: 2-3 hours
Special feature: You can buy truffles directly from the family at prices lower than market rates (black truffle around 400 euros/kg)
4. Agritourism San Mauro – Hunt + Accommodation
For a complete experience, Agritourism San Mauro offers a package that includes two nights of accommodation, a morning truffle hunt, and dinner prepared with your catch. They are located 15 minutes from Motovun, in a renovated Istrian stone house.
Price: 280 euros for two people (2 nights + hunt + dinner)
Availability: November – February
Special feature: Host Bruno is a former professional chef who worked in Milan
5. Miro Tartufi – Family Hunt with Children
Have small children and worried they won't find it interesting? The Mirković family has designed a hunt adapted for families – shorter (90 minutes), with the story of truffles told as a fairy tale and the opportunity for children to try finding truffles themselves. At the end, everyone prepares truffle pasta together.
Price: 60 euros for adults, children up to 12 years free
Duration: 2 hours (including cooking)
Special feature: Each child receives a little truffle hunter diploma
Practical Tips for Winter Hunting
What to Wear and Bring
- Footwear: Waterproof hiking boots or wellington boots – the forest is muddy, the terrain uneven
- Clothing: Layers! Mornings are cold (around 3°C), but you warm up while walking
- Essential: Warm hat, gloves, small bottle of water
Best Time to Visit
White truffle: November and December (season ends December 31st by law)
Black truffle: January – March (cheaper, but still excellent)
Pro tip: Book your hunt for Tuesday to Thursday – local families are often busy on weekends.
Where to Sleep and What to Eat
Motovun is a picturesque medieval village, but it has a limited number of accommodation options. For an authentic experience, I recommend apartments in the old town itself or in surrounding villages like Livade and Karojba. On BarbaBooking.com you can find verified accommodation options – from rustic stone houses to modern apartments with vineyard views.
For dinner after the hunt, restaurant Pod Voltom in Motovun offers excellent fuži with truffles for 18 euros. If you want something more special, Konoba Mondo in Livade has a tasting menu (7 courses with truffles, 85 euros) that's worth every penny.
More Than Truffles
While you're already in this part of Istria, take the opportunity to visit nearby attractions. Pazin and its canyon are only a 20-minute drive – it inspired Jules Verne for his novel Journey to the Center of the Earth. Grožnjan, the town of artists, offers galleries and ceramic workshops. And if you crave the sea, Poreč and its Euphrasian Basilica (UNESCO) are accessible in less than half an hour.
Winter in inland Istria proves that Croatia isn't just sea and beaches. Sometimes the deepest experiences are hidden in the fog, beneath the leaves, waiting to be found – just like a truffle.