On the steep cliffs of the island of Žirje, where the sky merges with the open sea, silent witnesses still stand from a time when tuna was the gold of the Adriatic. Five stone tuna watchtowers – locally called "tunolovke" or "osmatračnice" – represent one of the most fascinating, yet least known gastro-historical traces on the entire Adriatic.
What exactly are tuna watchtowers?
Imagine this: a narrow stone shelter, barely large enough for one person, positioned on the highest cliff with a view spanning kilometers of open sea. Here, centuries ago, a watchman would spend days waiting for the moment when he would spot the dark shadows of tuna passing beneath the surface.
These simple, yet strategically brilliantly positioned structures served as the eyes of the entire island. When the watchman spotted a school, he would signal to the fishermen down in the cove – with smoke, a mirror, or simply loud calls that would echo across the stone boulders. Then the frantic action of lowering nets and surrounding the school would begin.
On Žirje, five of them are preserved, distributed along the southwestern coast of the island, each with a view of a different section of the sea. Together they covered almost the entire horizon.
Where to find the watchtowers on Žirje
Žirje is the largest and most remote island of the Šibenik archipelago, and it is precisely this isolation that has preserved these stone relics from oblivion and devastation. Here are the specific locations:
1. Watchtower at Cape Koromašna
The northernmost and best preserved. A marked trail leads to it from the village of Žirje (about 45 minutes of walking). The view from here extends all the way to Kornati. The walls are still intact, and the remains of a stone bench inside bear witness to long hours of waiting.
2. Observation post above Muna cove
Perhaps the most photogenic of all – it stands on the very edge of a vertical cliff, 80 meters above the sea. Access requires good footwear and sure-footedness. Local tip: go in the late afternoon when the sun illuminates the facade.
3. Tuna watchtower near Stupica Velika
This one is special because it is located right next to today's swimming area. You can combine exploration with swimming in the crystal-clear cove. The watchtower itself is partially ruined, but the foundations clearly outline the original shape.
4. Watchtower at Gradina
Located near an Illyrian hillfort, suggesting that this location has served for sea observation for thousands of years. The combination of prehistoric and later structures makes this site archaeologically extremely interesting.
5. The southernmost watchtower at Prokljan
The most difficult to access, requiring a local guide or a very detailed topographic map. It rewards the more persistent with a view that is never forgotten – 180 degrees of pure Adriatic.
Gastronomic heritage: from watchtower to plate
Why is an article about abandoned buildings in the gastronomy section? Because these watchtowers are not just architecture – they are material evidence of one of the most significant gastro-traditions of the Adriatic.
Tuna was for centuries the foundation of nutrition and economy of Dalmatian islands. Salted, dried, preserved in oil – it represented proteins that could survive long winters. The fishing technique, in which watchtowers played a key role, was a sophisticated collective operation that required precision, cooperation, and patience.
Today on Žirje you can taste dishes that directly inherit this tradition:
- Tuna under the bell (peka) – fresh tuna roasted with potatoes, vegetables, and medicinal herbs
- Dried tuna (mušćardini) – thinly sliced, seasoned with olive oil and lemon
- Tuna in brine – an old recipe still prepared in several families on Žirje
Konoba Žirje in the village itself offers a tasting menu dedicated to the tradition of tuna fishing. The price of the complete experience with three courses and local wine ranges around 35-45 euros per person. Reservation is mandatory at least one day in advance because ingredients are prepared for a known number of guests.
Practical tips for visiting
Žirje is not an island of mass tourism and that is exactly why it is special. Here is what you need to know:
How to get there
The ferry line from Šibenik runs once or twice daily, depending on the season. The journey takes about two hours and passes through the entire Šibenik archipelago. Alternatively, arrange a private transfer from Vodice or Tribunj (around 100-150 euros for a group of up to 6 people).
When to visit
May and September are ideal months. The sea is already warm enough for swimming, and there are no summer crowds (as much as Žirje ever has them). If you are coming because of the watchtowers, avoid July and August – the heat makes multi-hour walks across rocky terrain uncomfortable.
Accommodation on Žirje
The island offers a limited but authentic selection of accommodation. Through BarbaBooking.com you can find stone houses in the village itself or isolated villas with a view of the open sea – the very same horizon that tuna guardians watched for centuries. Book in advance because the island's capacity is limited, which preserves its character.
What to bring
- Sturdy footwear – paths to the watchtowers are rocky and steep
- Enough water – there are no shops on the island outside the village
- Sun protection – there is no shade on the cliffs
- A camera – the views deserve better than a mobile phone
More than a tourist attraction
The abandoned watchtowers on Žirje are not just ruins. They are testimony to a way of life that shaped the identity of islanders – a life in which the sea was both provider and threat, in which patience and community were conditions for survival.
When you stand in one of these stone shelters and look toward the open sea, you realize how little that view has changed. The sea is the same, the sky is the same, the wind carries the scent of salt just the same. Only the tuna no longer pass so frequently, and there is no one left to replace the watchmen.
But the stories remain. And the flavors remain. And the stone watchtowers remain – waiting for those who have enough curiosity to find them.
Planning a visit to Žirje or another island of the Šibenik archipelago? Check out authentic accommodations on BarbaBooking.com and secure your base for exploring hidden Adriatic stories.