In the northernmost part of the island of Cres, where the bura wind cuts through stone and bends trees to the ground, stone witnesses of a forgotten practice lie hidden. Quarantine sheepfolds – massive enclosures built several centuries ago – stand abandoned today, but their stories still live on in the tramuntana wind.
What exactly are quarantine sheepfolds?
Before we set off to discover specific locations, it's important to understand why these structures were built in the first place. In times when infectious livestock diseases could destroy the entire island's economy, shepherds developed an ingenious practice – they kept new or sick sheep in isolation before allowing them contact with the rest of the flock.
These quarantine sheepfolds, locally known as torovi or stancije, were built using dry stone walling – stones stacked without any binding material. A technique that testifies to the incredible skill of Cres builders and their understanding of the local climate.
Tramuntana: Land of Wind and Stone
The tramuntana area of Cres remains special to this day. This is the most sparsely populated part of the island, where goat paths replace asphalt roads, and the only neighbors are sheep, donkeys, and birds of prey. It is precisely here, scattered across the hills between the villages of Beli, Predošćica, and Filozići, that the best-preserved examples of quarantine sheepfolds can be found.
The best time to visit is spring (April-May) or early autumn (September-October). Summer can be too hot for hiking, and in winter the bura sometimes blows over 200 km/h – which is an authentic experience, but not exactly pleasant for exploration.
Five stone enclosures worth visiting
1. The Enclosure Above Beli – Guardian Over the Village
Just about twenty minutes' walk above the village of Beli, at an altitude of around 350 meters, lies the first enclosure on our list. This structure, approximately 15 meters in diameter, still has a completely preserved entrance – a low passage through which sheep had to pass one by one, allowing shepherds easier control.
Practical tip: The trail starts from the parking area in Beli (free, but limited capacity). Wear sturdy footwear as the terrain is rocky and uneven.
2. The Enclosures in Merag – Twins of Tramuntana
The village of Merag is known to most travelers today only as a ferry port, but few know that above the town, about 45 minutes' walk away, stand two enclosures of almost identical size. Local legend says they were built by two brothers who competed to see who could build the better sheepfold.
Both enclosures have visible remains of stone drinking troughs – deeply carved stone vessels that collected rainwater. On an island where fresh water has always been precious, such solutions were a matter of survival.
3. Stancija Vidaković – The Largest Preserved Complex
Between the villages of Filozići and Predošćica lies a true small wonder – a complex of three connected structures that locals have called Stancija Vidaković for generations, after the family that used it until the mid-20th century.
Here you can see:
- The main enclosure approximately 20 meters in diameter
- A smaller quarantine area for newly arrived animals
- Remains of a shepherd's hut with a hearth
- A stone cistern for water
Important note: A marked trail leads to this location from Predošćica (white-red markings), but the last 500 meters are unmarked. I recommend a GPS device or offline map.
4. The Enclosure on Halm – With a View of Kvarner
For those who want to combine history with a viewpoint, the enclosure on Halm hill offers both. At an altitude of 482 meters, this is the highest-positioned quarantine sheepfold on the island. From this spot, the view stretches from Učka to Velebit, and on clear days you can even see Snježnik in Gorski Kotar.
The enclosure is medium-sized, but is special for its thick walls – some sections are over a meter wide. The reason? At this altitude, the bura can blow so strongly that it would simply knock down thinner walls.
5. The Hidden Enclosure Near Puntarska Draga
The last on our list is also the least known. Hidden in dense maquis above Puntarska Draga cove, this enclosure is rarely visited. There's no marked trail, and the location is known mainly only to hunters and some more persistent hikers.
Why mention it then? Because it's the only enclosure on Cres where remains of the wooden roof structure are still visible – something that has long since decayed or been removed at all other locations.
Warning: Visit this location only with a local guide or with detailed directions. The terrain is overgrown and impassable without prior experience.
Practical tips for explorers
How to get to Tramuntana?
The ferry from Brestova (Istria) runs to Porozina in northern Cres every hour during the season. The price of a return ticket for a car with driver is around 25 euros. Alternatively, you can arrive by ferry from Valbiska to Merag from Krk.
Where to stay?
The village of Beli has several authentic stone houses converted into apartments – an ideal choice for those who want to feel the true spirit of tramuntana. You can find accommodation through BarbaBooking.com, where local hosts offer apartments with soul and story. Prices range from 50 to 80 euros per night, depending on the season.
What to bring?
- At least 2 liters of water per person
- Sun and wind protection (bura can surprise you)
- Sturdy hiking boots
- GPS device or offline maps
- Snacks – there are no cafés in tramuntana
Where to eat?
In Beli, the tavern Hibernicia awaits you with local specialties – spit-roasted lamb, Cres fish under the baking lid, and homemade cheese. The price of a meal for two is around 40-50 euros with wine.
Why visit these forgotten structures?
The quarantine sheepfolds on Cres are not as spectacular as Dubrovnik's walls nor as famous as Diocletian's Palace. But therein lies their charm – these are places where you won't be greeted by crowds of selfie sticks, but only the sound of the wind and the bleating of sheep in the distance.
Visiting these enclosures is a journey back to a time when life on the island was harsh, but also simple. When people built for centuries, not for seasons. When quarantine meant community survival, not a hashtag on social media.
Cres awaits you – with stone stories that no one else will tell.