On the steep shores of Cres, hidden from the eyes of tourists rushing toward the beaches, stand stone witnesses to a long-forgotten story. Lazarets - quarantine houses for livestock - have defied storms and time for centuries, guarding the secrets of the island's past. These are not ordinary ruins. These are monuments to the ingenuity of our ancestors who knew how to protect their communities from disease while keeping trade alive.
What exactly are lazarets and why were they so important?
Lazarets or quarantine houses for animals were a crucial link in Adriatic maritime trade from the 15th to the 19th century. When ships arrived from the mainland or other islands, livestock had to spend a certain period in isolation before being allowed to set foot on the island. This prevented the spread of diseases such as plague, foot-and-mouth disease, and other infections that could devastate entire herds.
Due to its position on important maritime routes, Cres had a particular need for such facilities. The island was known for sheep farming, whose wool was exported throughout the Mediterranean, making the protection of local herds a matter of economic survival.
Five lazarets on Cres you can visit
1. Lazaret in St. Blaise Bay
The best-preserved of all Cres lazarets is located in a small bay south of the town of Cres. The stone structure with thick walls and small ventilation openings still stands almost intact. Particularly interesting is the water drainage channel system, which testifies to a thoughtful approach to hygiene. You can reach the lazaret via a hiking trail from the town of Cres - the walk takes about 45 minutes and leads through olive groves with beautiful views of the sea.
Practical tip: Bring enough water as there are no springs along the way. The best time to visit is early morning or late afternoon when the sun is not too strong.
2. Lazaret ruins near Beli
Near the picturesque village of Beli, known for its griffon vulture sanctuary, lie the remains of a lazaret blended into the landscape so well that you can easily overlook them. This location is particularly interesting because it is in close proximity to ancient remains, suggesting that this area was important throughout various historical periods.
Combine your visit to the lazaret with a tour of the Caput Insulae Eco-Centre where you can learn about griffon vulture conservation - a unique experience you won't forget.
3. Stone lazaret at Cape Pernat
On the southwestern part of the island, where Cres almost touches Lošinj, stands perhaps the most photogenic of all lazarets. Situated on a bare cliff overlooking the open sea, this lazaret looks like a watchtower from another time. The walls are partially collapsed, but the floor plan is clearly visible.
Interesting fact: Local fishermen tell stories that partisans hid in this lazaret during World War II. Whether this is true or legend is hard to say, but the story adds an extra dimension to this place.
4. Lazaret in Martinšćica Bay
Martinšćica is a peaceful place on the west coast of Cres, known for its crystal-clear sea and family atmosphere. Few of the swimmers on the nearby beach know that just a hundred meters away lie the remains of a lazaret that was once one of the busiest on the island. This lazaret served for quarantining livestock arriving from the mainland, especially from the areas of present-day Slovenia and Istria.
After exploring, refresh yourself at one of the taverns in Martinšćica. I recommend lamb under the bell - preparation takes an hour and a half, so order in advance.
5. Lazaret remains near Osor
Osor, the ancient town at the junction of Cres and Lošinj, is home to the fifth lazaret on our list. This one is located slightly north of the famous Osor Cathedral and is partially included in private land. However, you can see the walls from the public path leading toward the sea.
Osor is otherwise an essential destination for all lovers of history and culture. Summer music evenings in the cathedral atrium attract visitors from all over Croatia, and the narrow street connecting two seas is one of the most photographed locations on the Adriatic.
How to organize a lazaret tour
You can visit all five lazarets in one day if you have a car, but I recommend taking more time. Each location has its own story and charm that is hard to absorb in a hurry.
Ideal two-day plan:
- Day one: Lazaret near Beli and ruins near Osor, with a lunch break in Osor
- Day two: Lazarets in St. Blaise Bay, Martinšćica, and at Cape Pernat
If you're planning a longer stay on Cres, consider accommodation in the town of Cres, which is an ideal base for exploring the entire island. Narrow stone streets, excellent restaurants with local food, and an authentic atmosphere make it the perfect place to rest after a full day of exploration.
Best time of year to visit
Spring (April and May) and early autumn (September and October) are ideal for visiting the lazarets. Temperatures are pleasant for walking, and the island is quieter than in the middle of the season. An added bonus: during this time you can enjoy the authentic Cres rhythm of life without crowds.
In winter, the island takes on a completely different atmosphere - mysterious and somewhat melancholic. If that appeals to you, the lazarets under winter skies provide a completely unique experience.
Before you set off
A few practical tips for your visit:
- Wear comfortable footwear - the terrain around the lazarets is often uneven and rocky
- Bring a map or download an offline map as the signal is not reliable everywhere
- Respect the site - do not remove stones and do not leave litter
- If you're unsure about the way, ask the locals - they will gladly help you and tell you a story or two
The Cres lazarets are not a tourist attraction in the classic sense. There are no tickets, guides, or souvenir shops. It is precisely this raw authenticity that makes them special. While standing among these old stone walls, it's easy to imagine how shepherds centuries ago waited for quarantine to pass, watching the same sea that you are watching today.