On the northern side of the island of Lošinj, hidden among pine forests and Mediterranean vegetation, stand the stone remains of an almost forgotten story. These are Austro-Hungarian quarantine stations for dogs - small, rustic buildings that served as the first line of defense against deadly rabies in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Today, few people know about them, and even fewer tourists realize they are walking past them, unaware of their fascinating history.
Why did dogs on Lošinj end up in quarantine?
During the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy, rabies was a true nightmare. The deadly disease spread across Europe, and the only means of control was strict supervision of animals that could transmit the virus. Lošinj, as an important maritime port with intensive ship traffic from across the Mediterranean, posed a particular risk.
Ships often transported dogs - either as companions to sailors or as cargo for sale. Every dog that arrived on the island had to undergo a mandatory 40-day quarantine. This was precisely the incubation period for rabies, so it was believed that a dog surviving this period without symptoms posed no danger.
Austro-Hungarian authorities built five smaller stone structures at strategically chosen locations - far enough from settlements to prevent potential spread of infection, yet accessible enough for veterinary supervision.
Five stone witnesses: Where are they and how to reach them?
1. Station near Krivica cove
The best-preserved of all five stations is located near Krivica cove on the northwestern side of the island. A gravel road leads to it from Mali Lošinj, and the walk takes about 45 minutes. The stone walls still stand at a height of nearly two meters, and the remains of metal rings where dogs were tied can be clearly seen.
Visiting tip: Bring enough water and set off early in the morning, especially in summer. The path is not marked, so it's wise to download GPS coordinates in advance or hire a local guide.
2. Ruins above Čikat
The second station is situated on elevated ground above the famous Čikat bay, a favorite among tourists. This location was chosen because of the constant winds which, according to beliefs at the time, "cleansed the air" of infection. Today, only foundations and parts of walls remain, but the location offers a spectacular view of the bay.
3. Stone cottage in Sunčana uvala
The third station is located near Sunčana uvala (Sunny Bay) and is interesting because it has been partially incorporated into a newer dry-stone wall. Local residents have used its stones for construction for generations, making it difficult today to discern the original contours.
4. Remains near St. Martin's
The fourth station is situated in the island's interior, on the path toward the small church of St. Martin. This is the most difficult location to access as the path leads through dense maquis shrubland. However, this very isolation keeps the remains relatively untouched.
5. Foundations in Baldarkin
The fifth and least preserved station is located in the Baldarkin area. Only stone foundations remain, barely visible beneath the vegetation. Nevertheless, this location holds special value as fragments of ceramics and glass bottles were found nearby - likely remains of veterinary preparations.
What was life like for a dog in quarantine?
Documents from the archives in Rijeka reveal interesting details about how these stations functioned. Each dog was given its own "crate" - a wooden house within the stone enclosure. Food was delivered once a day, and a veterinarian came every three days to check on the animals' health.
Dogs whose owners were wealthy received better treatment - more meat in their meals and more frequent visits. Poor sailors often had no money even for basic care, so their dogs survived on bread and fish.
Interestingly, the quarantine stations on Lošinj were known for relatively humane treatment. In some other ports of the Monarchy, dogs were simply killed upon arrival, while here they were given a chance to survive.
Why were the stations abandoned?
The development of Pasteur's rabies vaccine in the late 19th century gradually reduced the need for quarantines. By the beginning of World War I, most stations were already out of service. Austria-Hungary collapsed, and with it the veterinary control system that had existed.
The local population gradually dismantled the abandoned structures, using the stones for their own needs. Only in the last twenty years or so has interest in this heritage grown, primarily thanks to local historians and enthusiasts.
Practical tips for visitors
If you're planning to explore these locations, here is some useful information:
- Best time to visit: Spring (April-May) or early autumn (September-October) when temperatures allow for comfortable hiking without crowds.
- What to bring: Sturdy footwear, enough water, sun protection, and insect repellent.
- Organized tours: The Tourist Board of Mali Lošinj occasionally organizes guided tours of historical sites. Inquire at the tourist office.
- Photography: The best light for photos is in the early morning hours when the sun illuminates the stone walls at a low angle.
Where to stay on Lošinj?
For a complete island experience, we recommend accommodation in Mali Lošinj or surrounding villages. Apartments with sea views are ideal for relaxing after a day of exploration. Book your accommodation in advance, especially during summer months, as Lošinj attracts an increasing number of tourists who appreciate the combination of nature, history, and Mediterranean atmosphere.
Lošinj - an island with soul and story
Dog quarantine stations may not be Lošinj's most famous attraction, but it is precisely such hidden stories that make travels unforgettable. While most tourists enjoy the beaches and restaurants, you can step into the past and touch the stones that bear witness to times when medicine was still searching for answers to deadly diseases.
Lošinj is an island of aromatic pines, crystal-clear sea, and - as you now know - fascinating Austro-Hungarian heritage. Come, explore, and discover why it's called the island of vitality.