On the island of Vis, far from summer crowds and popular beaches, stand silent witnesses to a forgotten era. Stone toše – former warehouses for salting and processing sardines – are now abandoned buildings overgrown with Mediterranean vegetation. Yet it is precisely this neglect that makes them irresistible to all who seek an authentic story, far from the usual tourist routes.
What exactly are toše and why are they important?
Toše (or tonije) are stone buildings that served for processing oily fish, primarily sardines, from the 18th to the mid-20th century. During this period, Vis was one of the most important fishing centers in the entire Mediterranean. In the best years, Vis fishermen caught so many sardines that they needed somewhere to store, salt, and prepare them for export.
These massive stone structures, often located right on the coastline, had thick walls that maintained low temperatures – a natural refrigerator before the invention of modern cooling devices. Inside them, women and children spent hours arranging sardines in wooden barrels, covering them with layers of coarse sea salt.
5 abandoned toše worth visiting
1. Toša in Stiniva Cove
Yes, the same Stiniva that was declared the most beautiful European beach. But few people know that a hundred meters from the beach, hidden behind pine trees, lies an abandoned toša from the 19th century. The stone walls still stand, although the roof collapsed long ago. Visit it in the morning, before the beach becomes overcrowded – combine swimming with a bit of urban exploration.
Practical tip: You descend to Stiniva via a steep path (about 20 minutes of walking). Bring enough water and sturdy footwear if you plan to explore the toša.
2. Toše complex in Komiža – northern shore
Komiža was the epicenter of Vis's fishing industry, so it's no surprise that we find the most preserved toše here. On the northern side of town, toward Barjoška cove, three connected toše line up, once forming a real small factory. Today they are overgrown with blackberries and fig trees, but the floor plan is still clearly visible.
This is an ideal spot for photography – the contrast between rough stone, blue sea, and greenery creates scenes you won't forget. Local residents say that on summer nights you can sometimes smell salt and fish here – perhaps just a legend, perhaps something more.
How to get there: From the center of Komiža, take the coastal promenade heading north. After about fifteen minutes of pleasant walking, you'll notice the ruins on your left.
3. Toša at Cape Stupišće
This is perhaps the hardest to reach, but also the most impressive toša on the island. Located at the very tip of the cape, with a view of the open sea, this structure has defied the bura winds for more than 150 years. The walls are almost a meter thick, and the interior is surprisingly spacious.
The road to Cape Stupišće leads via a gravel road from the village of Podšpilje. Count on an hour of driving or two hours of walking. The reward? Complete solitude and one of the most beautiful views of the Adriatic.
Warning: The terrain is uneven, and the toša itself is not secured. Be careful and do not enter if you notice structural damage.
4. Twin toša in Zaglav Cove
Zaglav Cove, known for its pebble beach and crystal-clear sea, hides another curiosity. On the eastern edge of the cove stand two toše connected by a shared courtyard. According to locals' stories, real small auctions used to be held here – fishermen would bring their catch, and merchants would bid for the best specimens.
Today the courtyard between the toše is covered with wild capers, and in spring wild orchids bloom here. Zaglav Beach is only about a hundred meters away, so you can combine cultural-historical exploration with a full day of swimming.
5. Toša near St. Nicholas Church in Viško Polje
Unlike the others, this toša is not by the sea – it's located in the middle of the fertile Viško Polje, next to the Romanesque church of St. Nicholas. Why a fish warehouse so far from the coast? The answer lies in logistics: Vis wine and olive oil were exported on the same ships as salted fish, so warehouses were located halfway between fishing ports and vineyards.
This toša is the best preserved of all five. The roof is still intact, and inside you can see remnants of wooden shelves and stone basins for salting. Around the toša stretch vineyards of Pošip and Plavac, so you can combine your visit with a tasting of local wines at nearby cottages.
Practical tips for visiting
The best time to explore the toše is late spring (May-June) or early autumn (September-October). In summer, temperatures are too high for prolonged hiking, and in winter some paths are impassable.
What to bring:
- Sturdy closed-toe shoes (terrain is often rocky and overgrown)
- A flashlight for exploring darker corners
- Enough water – there are no springs at these locations
- A camera – the scenes are extremely photogenic
Respect the heritage: Although the toše are abandoned, they are part of the island's cultural heritage. Don't take anything, carve names into walls, or leave trash. Photograph your memories, and leave everything else for future generations.
Where to stay during your exploration
For the complete Vis heritage experience, we recommend accommodation in authentic stone houses in Komiža or the town of Vis. Many local apartments are housed in renovated fishermen's houses that provide insight into the traditional way of life. Through the BarbaBooking platform, you can find accommodation that will perfectly complement your journey through the island's history.
Komiža is the ideal base if you want to explore most of the toše – all locations are accessible from here within an hour. The town of Vis is a better option if you plan to visit Viško Polje and combine exploration with wine tastings.
Why are toše important today?
In an age when tourism increasingly strives for authenticity, the toše of Vis offer something that luxury resorts cannot – a touch of real history. Walking on the same stone floors once trodden by generations of fishermen, salters, and merchants, you feel the weight of time in a completely different way.
Local initiatives are trying to renovate some of the toše and turn them into museums or cultural centers. Until then, they remain secrets reserved for curious travelers who are not afraid to peek behind the main tourist attractions.
Vis is an island that doesn't share its stories easily. But to those who seek out its abandoned toše, it offers something priceless – the opportunity to momentarily become part of a forgotten world, when oily fish was gold, and stone buildings guarded the wealth of an entire community.