Deep in the heart of Velebit, far from well-trodden mountain trails, dark openings gape in the rock. These are not caves that nature carved over millennia – these are tunnel dairies, ingenious shepherd's cold stores where generations of herders hid and aged cheese. The temperature inside never exceeds 8°C, even in the middle of August heat.
These architectural relics of pastoral life are forgotten today, overgrown with moss and wild blackberries. But for those who know where to look, they reveal a fascinating world of tradition that survived centuries – and is slowly disappearing.
Why did shepherds dig tunnels into the mountain?
Before the era of electric refrigerators, Velebit shepherds faced a practical problem: how to preserve cheese during the hot summer months? They found the answer in the mountain itself.
The limestone rock of Velebit naturally maintains a constant low temperature. The shepherds knew this and made use of it – they hand-dug tunnels up to 30 meters long, creating perfect natural cold stores. Inside, they placed wooden shelves on which they aged škripavac, basa, and other Velebit cheeses.
Temperature in tunnels: 4-8°C year-round
Humidity: 80-90% – ideal for cheese aging
Tunnel depth: 10-30 meters
5 abandoned tunnel dairies you can visit
1. The dairy above Veliki Alan
The best-preserved tunnel dairy is located at an altitude of 1,400 meters, about twenty minutes' walk from the Alan mountain hut. The tunnel is 18 meters long, and the original wooden shelves from the 1930s are still visible inside.
How to get there: From the Alan mountain hut, head northeast, following the old shepherd's path. GPS coordinates: 44.3142° N, 15.0891° E
Access difficulty: Medium, basic hiking equipment required
Best time to visit: June – September
2. The double tunnels of Štirovača
A unique complex of two parallel tunnels used by two shepherd families – the Prpićs and the Bušljetas. According to local legend, the families competed to see whose cheese would age better, and they dug the tunnels simultaneously during the winter of 1927.
Today, the entrances are partially collapsed, but you can still enter the first tunnel, approximately 12 meters deep. Carved initials of shepherds and dates are visible on the walls – the oldest found is from 1889.
Location: Štirovača Valley, 3 km west of Štirovača
Access: Challenging, only with a local guide
3. The ice dairy at Baške Oštarije
This dairy got its name from the fact that ice remains inside until mid-June. It is located on the northern slope of Velebit and is 28 meters deep – the deepest known tunnel dairy.
Shepherds from the village of Baške Oštarije used it until the 1970s. The last shepherd to age cheese here was Jure Tomljenović, who passed away in 2003. His granddaughter now runs a family farm and sells cheese according to the traditional recipe, although she uses a modern refrigerator.
Tip: Contact OPG Tomljenović to purchase authentic Velebit cheese and for information about visiting the dairy.
4. The hidden dairy of Dabra
The most difficult to access of all, the dairy above the village of Dabra requires a three-hour ascent through dense beech forest. But the reward is worth the effort – the tunnel is almost untouched, with the original stone trough for draining whey and a wooden partition that separated the space for fresh and aged cheese.
Local mountaineer Marko Devčić organizes guided tours to this dairy from June to September. The price is 200 kuna per person, including a tasting of homemade cheese on the way back.
5. The military dairy above Obrovac
Unlike the others, this tunnel has a dual history. Originally dug as a shepherd's dairy in the 1910s, during World War II it served the partisans as a food storage facility. Traces of paint used to mark supplies are still visible on the walls.
It is only an hour from Obrovac, making it the most accessible for visitors who don't want a longer hike.
Access: From the center of Obrovac, 7 km on a gravel road to the parking lot, then 45 minutes on foot
Practical tips for exploring tunnel dairies
What to bring
- Headlamp – essential, the tunnels are completely dark
- Warm clothing – it's cold inside even in summer
- Sturdy shoes – the ground is uneven and slippery
- Gloves – for holding onto the cold rock
- Camera with good ISO – flash ruins the atmosphere
Safety rules
Never enter the tunnels alone. The structure is old and there is a risk of collapse. We recommend hiring a local guide – besides knowing the safe approaches, they will tell you stories you won't find in any guidebook.
Best time to visit
The ideal time is from mid-June to mid-September. Earlier in the season, access may be blocked by snow, and later the autumn rains begin, making the trails slippery.
Where to stay during your exploration
For serious exploration of tunnel dairies, we recommend accommodation in Karlobag or Starigrad Paklenica. Both places offer an excellent base – in the morning you can explore the mountain, and in the afternoon enjoy the crystal-clear Adriatic.
Karlobag is particularly practical as it is located halfway between northern and southern Velebit. Apartments with sea views are available from 50 euros per night, and local taverns offer fresh shrimp and Velebit lamb under the peka.
Starigrad Paklenica offers more options for families – from luxury apartments to campsites. Paklenica National Park is only 5 minutes away, allowing you to combine visits to tunnel dairies with classic hiking.
The last guardians of tradition
Of the hundred or so tunnel dairies that existed on Velebit, fewer than twenty are preserved well enough to visit today. Each year another one disappears – the entrance collapses, the access path becomes overgrown, the last local who knows the location passes away.
Visiting these dairies means more than a tourist excursion. It is a pilgrimage into a world that is vanishing – a world where shepherds knew every rock, where cheese aged for months in darkness, where the mountain was simultaneously home, workshop, and refrigerator.
If this story inspires you to make the journey, be respectful visitors. Don't leave trash, don't take anything from the tunnels, photograph only memories. These dairies survived wars and communism – let's not be their final blow.