On the southwestern coast of Mljet, far from the national park and tourist routes, three coves hide a dark and fascinating past. These natural harbors served as quarantine stations – places where ships from the Levant had to spend a full 40 days before being allowed to sail into Dubrovnik. Today, these are some of the most beautiful and best-preserved coves in the entire Adriatic, perfect for those seeking a historical story intertwined with crystal-clear sea.
Why exactly 40 days of quarantine?
The word quarantine comes from the Italian word quaranta, meaning forty. The Republic of Dubrovnik was the first in the world to introduce an organized quarantine system in 1377, becoming a pioneer in public health protection. Ships arriving from ports in the eastern Mediterranean – Alexandria, Constantinople, Beirut – carried not only spices, silk, and gold but also the potential plague infection.
Mljet was an ideal choice for a quarantine station. Close enough to Dubrovnik that goods could be quickly delivered after the isolation period ended, yet far enough that any potential infection couldn't reach the city. The coves on the southwestern coast provided excellent protection from all winds, while steep cliffs prevented crew members from smuggling themselves ashore.
Three quarantine coves you must visit
1. Sutmiholjska Cove – the main quarantine harbor
Sutmiholjska is the largest of the three coves and served as the main quarantine harbor for larger ships. About 400 meters deep, with a narrow entrance that Dubrovnik guards could easily monitor, this cove still gives the impression of a natural fortress.
On the northern side of the cove, you can still see the remains of stone walls of the lazaretto – a quarantine warehouse where goods were aired out and disinfected with smoke. The walls are mostly collapsed, but the foundations clearly outline the floor plan of the former building. Particularly interesting is the stone pier, partially submerged, which was used for unloading cargo without physical contact with the ship's crew.
Practical tip: You can reach Sutmiholjska by boat from Pomena (20 minutes) or on foot via a trail from the village of Babino Polje (45 minutes of moderately demanding walking). Bring water as there are no springs or food establishments at the location. Anchoring is allowed, but the bottom is rocky so use a mooring buoy if available.
2. Prožura Cove – for smaller vessels and fishing fleets
Located a kilometer south of Sutmiholjska, Prožura Cove served for the quarantine of smaller vessels. It got its name from the village of the same name on top of the hill, from where guards could monitor both the cove and the open sea.
What makes Prožura special is its sandy bottom – a rarity on Mljet – which creates incredible shades of turquoise and emerald. At depths of 5 to 8 meters, divers can find pottery remains and ballast stones – stone weights used to stabilize ships. Local divers claim to have found Venetian glass beads, probably part of cargo intended for trade.
Practical tip: Prožura is excellent for snorkeling. Visibility often exceeds 30 meters, and water temperature reaches 25°C in summer. If you're planning longer diving, arrange boat transport from Sobra as pedestrian access is demanding and takes over an hour.
3. Okuklje Cove – the last stop before Dubrovnik
Okuklje is the easternmost of the three quarantine coves and served as the final checkpoint. Here, ships that had successfully survived 40 days of isolation received their patente di sanità – a health permit for entry into Dubrovnik's port.
Unlike the previous two coves, Okuklje has a small settlement of the same name with about ten houses and one tavern that operates in summer. The cove is more sheltered and calmer, ideal for overnight anchoring. On the eastern side, you can see the remains of the 15th-century Church of St. Nicholas, patron saint of sailors, where seamen prayed for health before the final leg of their journey.
Practical tip: Konoba Okuklje offers fresh grilled fish and local wine. Meal prices range from 20 to 35 euros per person. Reservations aren't necessary, but call ahead to check if they're open – off-season they tend to close without notice.
How to plan a visit to the quarantine coves
The best way to tour all three coves is to rent a boat in Pomena or Polače. Prices range from 150 to 250 euros per day for a small speedboat (up to 6 people), with fuel included. If you don't have boating experience, local skippers offer day trips at prices from 80 to 120 euros per person, including lunch and snorkeling equipment.
For those who prefer land access, we recommend a combination of hiking and local boat transport. From Babino Polje, head out in the morning toward Sutmiholjska, spend the morning exploring the cove, then take a boat to Prožura for swimming and lunch, and end the day in Okuklje watching the sunset.
Best time to visit
June and September are ideal months for touring the quarantine coves. The sea is warm enough for swimming, and crowds are significantly smaller than in July and August. In pre-season (May) and post-season (October), the coves are almost completely deserted, but the tavern in Okuklje doesn't operate then, so bring your own food.
Accommodation near the quarantine coves
For the complete experience, we recommend accommodation in Babino Polje or Sobra, from where the coves are easily accessible. Babino Polje offers an authentic island life experience with traditional stone houses converted into apartments, while Sobra is a more practical option with a ferry connection to the mainland and a larger selection of restaurants.
On BarbaBooking.com you can find verified accommodations on Mljet – from rustic stone houses with gardens to modern apartments with sea views. Hosts often offer additional services such as organizing trips to the quarantine coves or sourcing fresh fish directly from local fishermen.
Quarantine coves today: From isolation to inspiration
Ironically, places that served for forced isolation for centuries now attract visitors who voluntarily seek an escape from civilization. In a time when peace has become a luxury, these three coves offer something that tourist beaches cannot – silence interrupted only by the sound of waves and the singing of cicadas.
While floating in the crystal-clear sea of Sutmiholjska, it's hard not to think about the sailors who spent 40 long days here waiting to be allowed to continue their journey. Their forced pause has become our privilege – because it was precisely thanks to the quarantine measures of the Republic of Dubrovnik that these coves remained untouched and preserved to this day.
Visiting Mljet's quarantine coves isn't just swimming at a beautiful beach. It's a journey through time, an encounter with history that shaped the modern world of public health, and a reminder that the most beautiful places are often those that were protected – even if unintentionally.