On the small island of Zlarin, just twenty minutes by ferry from Šibenik, stone witnesses of a long-forgotten era lie hidden. These are abandoned quarantine stations for coral divers – five structures that were once crucial to the Adriatic trade in red coral, gems that sailors called "red gold."
Zlarin corals: treasure that fed generations
Before you dive into the story of quarantine stations, you must understand why this tiny island even had such infrastructure. The waters around Zlarin were one of the richest red coral (Corallium rubrum) sites in the entire Mediterranean. From the 15th century until the mid-20th century, coral hunting was the island's primary economic activity.
Coral divers were a special caste of people – brave divers and sailors who sailed for months in search of precious branches. Returning from distant waters, they had to go through strict quarantine procedures. And this is precisely where these enigmatic stone structures come into play.
Five quarantine stations worth visiting
1. Lazaret in Muna Bay
The largest and best-preserved quarantine station is located in the peaceful Muna Bay, on the northwestern side of the island. This imposing stone building was constructed in the 17th century and could accommodate up to thirty coral divers at once. Today, the walls are overgrown with ivy, but the stone door thresholds and window frames are clearly visible.
Practical tip: You can reach Muna Bay on foot from the village of Zlarin – the walk takes about 25 minutes along a picturesque path through a pine forest. Bring water and comfortable footwear.
2. Smaller station at Cape Gradina
At Cape Gradina itself stands a more modest but extremely atmospheric structure. It is believed to have served for shorter quarantine periods or for storing the harvested coral itself. The view from this spot over the open sea is truly breathtaking – you can imagine coral divers awaiting the end of their days in isolation.
3. Ruins in Tatinja Bay
In Tatinja Bay, only the foundations of a former quarantine station remain, but this very fragmentary nature gives this place a special poetry. Local residents say the stones were taken for building their own houses during the 19th century – a common practice in times when survival was more important than heritage preservation.
Interesting fact: Near the ruins, there is an excellent swimming beach, so you can combine cultural exploration with a refreshing swim in the crystal-clear sea.
4. "By the Three Olive Trees" Station
Locals simply call it "By the Three Olive Trees" because of the triple olive tree growing right next to the walls. This station is unique in that it has a preserved underground space – it probably served to keep coral cool during quarantine. Access to the cellar is not safe today, so we don't recommend it without a local guide.
5. The Mazzarelli Family Quarantine
The only quarantine station that was privately owned belonged to the Mazzarelli family, one of the most influential coral diving families in the Adriatic. The building is located near the village of Zlarin and has been partially restored. The owners – descendants of the famous coral diving dynasty – sometimes receive visitors by prior arrangement.
How coral diver quarantine worked
Quarantine for coral divers wasn't just a health measure. Of course, there was fear of plague and other infectious diseases that sailors could bring from distant parts of the Mediterranean. But equally important was smuggling control.
Red coral was so valuable that traders tried to push it past official channels to avoid taxes and duties. Quarantine stations also served as a kind of customs house – while coral divers waited for the prescribed isolation period to pass, officials inspected and inventoried the catch.
The quarantine period usually lasted 40 days – hence the name itself (Italian quaranta giorni). Imagine: after months of strenuous hunting and dangerous dives, coral divers had to wait almost another month and a half before they could embrace their families.
Best time to visit
Zlarin's quarantine sites are most beautiful in spring (April-May) and early autumn (September-October). The island is quiet then, temperatures are pleasant for hiking, and the light has that special Adriatic softness that gives photographs a magical quality.
In summer, the island is livelier, which has its charms, but prepare for the heat if you're planning to visit all five locations in one day. I recommend starting early in the morning, visiting two or three sites, and then refreshing yourself with a swim in one of the hidden coves.
Where to stay on Zlarin
The island offers a diverse choice of accommodation – from authentic stone houses in the center of the village to modern apartments with sea views. If you're planning serious exploration of the quarantine stations and coral heritage, I recommend staying for at least two to three nights. This way, you'll have enough time for all the sites, but also to enjoy the island pace of life.
Apartments near the ferry port are practical for arrivals and departures, while those in the quieter part of the island offer better respite from the city bustle. Book accommodation in advance, especially for the summer season.
Local gastronomy: flavors of coral diving tradition
After a long day of exploration, reward yourself with dinner at one of Zlarin's taverns. The island is known for fresh fish, but be sure to try local specialties like Zlarin pogača – traditional bread that coral divers' wives baked for their husbands before long voyages.
The restaurant "Kod Marije" offers excellent pašticada, while the tavern "Borozan" has a fantastic fish platter for two. Prices are reasonable – expect 25 to 40 euros per person for a complete meal with wine.
Before you go
The quarantine stations on Zlarin are not tourist-developed sites. Don't expect information boards, maintained paths, or souvenir shops. This is precisely what makes them special – these are raw, authentic places where you can feel the spirit of the past without the filter of modern tourism.
Bring a map of the island (available on the ferry or at the local tourist board), enough water, sunscreen, and above all – curiosity. These stone structures have stories waiting to be heard.
Zlarin's coral divers have long since gone, but their heritage lives on in every stone, every cove, and every story that local residents still gladly retell to this day. Come and become part of that story.