Imagine a caravan of laden horses making its way through the Neretva valley at sunset. The traders are carrying salt – 'white gold' – toward the interior of the Balkans, and night is catching up with them. On a hillside, they spot a stone tower with small windows and smoke rising from the chimney. A han tower. Shelter, dinner, safety.
These structures, scattered throughout the Neretva region, are largely forgotten today. Some are ruins overgrown with ivy, others have been converted into family homes, and a few still preserve traces of the stone hearth where weary travelers once warmed themselves. We're taking you on a journey through time and space – to five locations where stone walls still whisper stories of caravan times.
Why Was Salt So Important?
Before we set off on our tour, it's worth understanding why these routes existed in the first place. Salt was essential for preserving food, tanning leather, and livestock farming. From the Adriatic coast, especially from the Ston salt pans and the area around the Neretva estuary, caravans carried salt to Bosnia, Serbia, and beyond.
The journey was arduous and dangerous. Travelers had to cross the swampy parts of the delta, climb through canyons, and endure all weather conditions. Han towers sprang up at day's march intervals – approximately every 25-30 kilometers – the distance a caravan could cover in a day.
1. Norinska Tower – Guardian at the Edge of the Swamp
Just ten kilometers from Ploče, in the village of Podrujnica, stands Norinska Tower. This was the first stop for caravans setting out from the port of Vid (ancient Narona) toward the interior.
What you can see today: The tower has been partially restored and serves as a private home. The owners are friendly and, if you catch them at home, will gladly share their family history connected to the building. Of particular interest is the original stone portal with the year 1682 carved into it.
Practical tip: Visit in the morning while the fog is still rising from the river – the atmosphere is mystical. Combine it with a visit to the Narona Archaeological Museum in Vid, just 5 kilometers away.
2. Gabela Han Tower – At the Crossroads of Worlds
Gabela was once one of the most important trading centers on the entire Neretva. The Turkish customs post (gabela = customs) controlled all goods passing through. The han tower here wasn't just a place to spend the night, but also a warehouse and trading center.
What you can see today: The remains of the fortress and several old buildings testify to the former importance of the place. The tower itself is in a ruinous state, but this only enhances the sense of authenticity. Information boards were installed in 2019 thanks to a local heritage preservation association.
Gastronomic tip: At the nearby tavern Mate, try the Neretva eel stew – a goulash made from eel cooked the same way it has been for hundreds of years. Price around 12 euros per portion. Here you can experience Neretva culinary tradition in its original form.
3. The Stone Watchtower in Metković – A Forgotten Gem
In the center of Metković, a town that grew up on trade, stands a small stone tower that most locals pass without noticing. It's located behind the parish church, hidden among newer buildings.
What you can see today: The tower is unmarked and not officially open to visitors, but you can view it from the outside. The walls, nearly a meter thick, and the gun loops on the upper floor indicate it served for defense as well, not just as overnight accommodation.
Where to stay: Metković has an excellent selection of apartments with river views. It's an ideal base for exploring the entire Neretva region – from delta safari tours to wine tastings in Slivno.
4. Struga – The Last Han Before the Mountains
Right on the border with Bosnia and Herzegovina, the village of Struga guarded a han tower that was the last stop before the difficult climb over the mountain. Here, caravans often waited for several days for the weather to improve or for larger groups to gather for safety.
What you can see today: The tower has been converted into a residential house, but the old horse trough (stone basin) still stands in front of the entrance. Also interesting is the old fountain with an inscription in Turkish.
Nearby activity: From here, a hiking trail leads to Hutovo Blato (6 km), one of the most important wetland reserves in Europe. Perfect for birdwatching in spring and autumn.
5. Počitelj – The Han Tower with the Most Beautiful View
Technically in Bosnia and Herzegovina, but so close to the border and so connected to the Neretva route that we cannot leave it out. Počitelj was an important fortress and trading center, and the han tower below the fortress served caravans that had crossed the most difficult part of the journey.
What you can see today: Počitelj has been restored and lives on as an artists' colony. You can climb the Sahat Tower (clock tower) and enjoy a view that hasn't changed since the days of the caravans. Entry to the fortress is free.
Gastronomic tip: In one of the many taverns, try Bosnian pot – a dish that slow-cooks for hours, just as in the days when traders waited for their horses to rest.
Practical Tips for Exploring the Caravan Routes
When to visit?
Spring (April–May) and early autumn (September–October) are ideal for touring. It can be extremely hot in the valley during summer, and some approaches are inaccessible in winter.
How to get around?
A car is essential. Public transport doesn't cover these locations. For the more adventurous – the Neretva Bike Route cycling trail passes near most locations.
Where to stay?
We recommend accommodation in Metković, Opuzen, or Ploče as a base for exploration. On BarbaBooking.com you'll find authentic apartments and holiday homes with hosts who know local stories and hidden corners.
What to bring?
- Good footwear for walking on uneven terrain
- Water and light snacks – there are no shops in some places
- A camera – the scenery is unforgettable
- Mosquito repellent for areas near the swamp
Conclusion: More Than Ruins
These stone han towers are not just architectural remains. They are witnesses to a time when salt was more valuable than silver, when journeys lasted weeks, and when every overnight stop meant survival. Visit them while they still keep their silence – before tourist crowds discover them or time swallows them completely.
The Neretva awaits you with stories no guidebook can tell. Only the stones remember.