On the western part of the island of Mljet, hidden among pine forests and maquis, stand five stone structures that most tourists never notice. These unusual buildings look like small chapels without windows, with thick walls and narrow openings. However, their purpose was far from spiritual — they served to disinfect letters and packages during major epidemics.
What are fumigatoriums and why were they built on Mljet?
Fumigatoriums are quarantine stations where postal shipments were exposed to smoke from aromatic herbs — most commonly wormwood, rosemary, and lavender. The Austro-Hungarian authorities built them in 1806 as a response to frequent plague epidemics that were devastating the Mediterranean. Mljet, due to its position on the maritime route between Dubrovnik and further Adriatic ports, became a strategic point for disease control.
Mail arriving by ship had to undergo the process of fumigation — smoking that lasted from several hours to several days, depending on the origin of the shipment. Letters from high-risk areas were pierced with needles so that smoke could penetrate every corner of the paper. Only after this ritual was the mail allowed to continue its journey to the recipients.
Five locations worth visiting
Mljet's fumigatoriums are distributed at strategic points on the island, and each has its own story:
- Fumigatorium in Pomena — the best-preserved specimen, located just 200 meters from the ferry port. The thick stone walls still bear traces of soot from ancient times.
- Fumigatorium near Goveđari — located on the edge of a vineyard, and local winemakers say that grapes in its vicinity produce particularly aromatic wine.
- Fumigatorium in Babino Polje — the largest of all five, with two separate compartments for different categories of mail.
- Fumigatorium at Solinski Rat — a semi-ruined structure with a sea view, ideal for photographing at sunset.
- Fumigatorium above Okuklje cove — the most difficult to access, requiring a 30-minute walk through the forest, but the reward is peace and authenticity.
Gastronomic heritage of Mljet's quarantine stations
You might be wondering — what do fumigatoriums have to do with gastronomy? The answer lies in the herbs that were used for fumigation. Local residents of Mljet have for generations used the same combinations of wormwood, rosemary, and wild mint not only for disinfection but also in the kitchen.
Today, several family restaurants on the island offer dishes inspired by this heritage:
Stermasi Restaurant in Babino Polje
Here you can try lamb under the bell with fumigatorium herbs — a combination of rosemary, wormwood, and sage that evokes the aromatic smoke of old times. The price is around 20 euros per person, and the portions are generous. Be sure to reserve a day in advance as the restaurant has only eight tables.
Konoba Ankora in Pomena
Specializing in seafood, this tavern serves squid in buzara sauce with Mljet wormwood — the taste is intense and not at all sweet, as befits island cuisine. With your meal, be sure to order a glass of local Pošip — from a winemaker from Goveđari who grows his vines in the shadow of the fumigatorium.
Local products you can buy
At the market in Babino Polje (Tuesdays and Fridays from 8 AM to 12 PM) look for:
- Fumigatorium salt — sea salt mixed with smoked rosemary, price around 5 euros for 200 g
- Wormwood oil — used for marinating fish, a 250 ml bottle costs around 12 euros
- Dried herbs for smoking — a perfect souvenir for barbecue enthusiasts, a 100 g package costs 4 euros
Practical tips for visiting the fumigatoriums
If you want to explore all the fumigatoriums in one day, here is the optimal route:
Morning: Start from Pomena around 8 AM, visit the first fumigatorium while it's still cool. Continue on foot towards Goveđari (about 45 minutes of pleasant walking through the forest) and visit the second fumigatorium along the way.
Late morning: In Goveđari, have coffee at the only café and continue by bus (departs at 10:30 AM, price 2 euros) towards Babino Polje. The third fumigatorium is a 10-minute walk from the bus station.
Afternoon: After lunch at Stermasi, rent a bicycle (around 15 euros per day) and ride to Solinski Rat. The fourth fumigatorium is ideal for visiting in the late afternoon when the sun is not too strong.
Sunset: Leave the fifth fumigatorium above Okuklje for the end. The walk is most beautiful at dusk, and the view of Lastovo in the distance makes it unforgettable.
When to visit Mljet?
For exploring the fumigatoriums, the best period is from mid-April to mid-June and September. In summer, temperatures are too high for multi-hour walks, and in winter, some paths are impassable due to mud. Mljet National Park charges an entrance fee of 14 euros per person, but the fumigatoriums are located outside the park boundaries, so the visit is free.
Accommodation near the fumigatoriums
If you want to thoroughly explore this unusual heritage, we recommend at least three nights on the island. Pomena and Babino Polje offer the best selection of apartments and private accommodation, and you can find numerous options on BarbaBooking.com — from modest rooms for two to spacious houses for the whole family.
Particularly interesting are stone houses in the island's interior, built from the same stone as the fumigatoriums. Sleeping in such a space, with the sounds of crickets and the scent of rosemary, will bring you closer to the atmosphere that prevailed here two centuries ago.
Forgotten history that comes alive through flavors
Mljet's fumigatoriums are not just an architectural curiosity — they are a living connection with the past that can still be felt in local cuisine, tradition, and way of life. As you sit in a tavern and enjoy lamb seasoned with herbs that once protected people from the plague, you will realize that the heritage of this island is deeply woven into every bite.
These stone structures are waiting for you to discover them — quiet, unpretentious, and completely different from anything you will see on the rest of the Adriatic.