On the northwestern coast of Silba, the smallest and most peaceful inhabited island of the Zadar archipelago, stand silent witnesses to a forgotten way of life. Five stone structures, resembling labyrinths from a bird's eye view, emerge from the shallow sea as if guarding a secret that the modern era no longer understands. These are tunere – quarantine fish traps that caught sardines for three centuries without nets, without boats, without any human presence.
What exactly are stone fish traps?
Imagine a wall of stacked stone extending about thirty meters into the sea, then curving into a spiral or labyrinth. The fishermen of Silba built these structures from the 17th century, using a simple but ingenious principle – sardines swimming along the coast naturally follow the stone wall toward the interior of the trap. Once they enter the labyrinth, they can no longer find the exit.
The name "quarantine" carries special weight. In times when plague ravaged Europe and Venice controlled Adriatic trade, Silba served as a quarantine station. Ships waited forty days before entering ports, and the local population developed a self-sufficient way of life. These traps provided them with fresh fish without the need to venture into open sea.
How did the fishing work?
The technique was simple to perfection:
- High tide would bring schools of sardines toward the shore
- The fish would follow the stone wall thinking they were seeking a passage
- The spiral shape led them deeper and deeper into the trap
- During low tide, fishermen would simply walk in and collect the catch with nets or even by hand
One well-positioned tunera could catch up to 200 kilograms of sardines daily during the season, from April to October. The fish were then salted in wooden barrels – a tradition that earned Silba the nickname "island of salted sardines."
Five labyrinths you can visit today
Today all tunere are abandoned, but five are well-preserved enough to be worth visiting. Here is a detailed guide:
1. Tunera in Pocukmarak cove
The best preserved and most accessible of all five. Located twenty minutes' walk from Silba village, toward the northwestern cape. The stone wall still stands at almost full height of 1.2 meters, and the spiral entrance is clearly visible at low tide. The best time to visit is early morning, one hour before the lowest tide – then you can walk inside the labyrinth.
2. Double tunera at Cape Arat
A unique construction with two separate labyrinths sharing a common outer wall. Local historians believe it was built by two families simultaneously, sharing material costs. It's reached via a path through the maquis, about 40 minutes from the village center. Bring closed footwear – the terrain is rocky.
3. "Vela stupica" tunera
The largest of all, with an initial wall 45 meters long. Unfortunately, the inner part of the labyrinth collapsed during storms in the 1990s, but the outer structure still impresses. Located on the eastern side of the island, halfway between Silba and Nozdre cove.
4. Small tunera in Papranica cove
This is the oldest documented trap on the island, with first records from 1687. It's compact, with a labyrinth diameter of only six meters, but extremely photogenic. The surrounding landscape with Aleppo pines and white rocks makes it perfect for photography during sunset.
5. Semi-ruined tunera near Žal
Perhaps the least spectacular, but with the most interesting story. According to local legend, this tunera was cursed by a fisherman whose neighbors stole his catch in 1823. Since then it "refused to catch fish." The more realistic version says it was damaged by a storm and never repaired because the family moved to Zadar.
How to get to Silba and where to stay
Silba is a car-free island – the only transportation is on foot and the occasional electric golf cart for luggage. Ferries run from Zadar (about 2 hours and 15 minutes) and Mali Lošinj (1 hour and 30 minutes). In summer there are also catamaran lines that shorten the journey to 75 minutes.
For accommodation, I recommend booking an apartment in Silba village at least a week in advance during summer season. The island has only 300 permanent residents but capacity for about 1,500 guests – it fills up quickly. On BarbaBooking.com you can find authentic stone houses with gardens, ideal for explorers who want to experience the true island pace.
Gastronomic experience: From tunera to plate
Although the tunere no longer fish, the tradition of preparing sardines on Silba lives on. Here's what you should try:
- Salted sardines "the old way" – Kamenica tavern still prepares them according to a 19th-century recipe, with coarse sea salt and homegrown bay leaves
- Grilled sardines – simple, perfect, best at Mul restaurant right on the waterfront
- Pasta with sardine sauce – a local version of the Sicilian recipe, with added capers from nearby Olib island
The price of a complete fish meal ranges from 15 to 25 euros per person, depending on location and season.
Practical tips for visiting the stone labyrinths
Here's what you need to know before going:
- Tide app – download any tide app and set the location to Zadar; the difference between Silba and Zadar is negligible
- Footwear – sandals with sturdy soles or water shoes are essential; the rocks are sharp and slippery
- Sun protection – there's no shade, and the visit takes at least an hour
- Drone – if you have one, this is the perfect opportunity; the spiral shapes look incredible from the air
- Guide – local historian Ante Modrić leads tours on weekends for 10 euros per person; ask at the tourist office
Why were the tunere abandoned?
The answer is both simple and sad. Industrial fishing made the stone traps unprofitable. Modern vessels with nets could catch in one night what a tunera caught in an entire season. By the 1960s, the last fishermen who used the traps had died or moved to the mainland.
Today these structures have no protected status, meaning erosion is slowly but surely destroying them. There are initiatives to restore them as a cultural-tourism attraction, but funding is delayed. Visiting now, while they still stand, may be the only chance to see them in relatively original form.
Silba beyond the traps
While on the island, don't miss:
- Toreta – a six-story tower from 1808, built as a gift of love
- Sotorišće beach – sandy bottom, shallow sea, perfect for families
- Night swimming – plankton phosphorescence is visible from July to September
Silba proves that the Adriatic has more than beaches and blue water. It has stories carved in stone, traditions waiting to be rediscovered, and a peace that urban Europe has long forgotten. The stone labyrinths for sardines are just one reason why this small car-free island deserves a place on your journey.