The fog still clings to the water as the boat pulls away from the shore in Mali Ston. Ahead of you lies a motionless sea, and on it rafts with long rows of ropes that disappear beneath the surface. A cluster of mussels as heavy as a sack of potatoes is hauled up from a rope, and a farmer in rubber boots opens the first oyster with a knife and hands it to you, still wet. In winter, when the tourists have dispersed, it is precisely in the Bay of Mali Ston that the very best happens.
Why winter is the right time for shellfish
The Bay of Mali Ston is a protected area with a distinctive blend of fresh water from underground springs and salty water from the Adriatic. This is why the shellfish here are of exceptional quality. Oysters (Ostrea edulis) have been farmed in this area since Roman times, and according to tradition, farming in Ston goes back more than two thousand years.
Winter is their season because the sea is colder and the meat is firmer, saltier and fuller. The best period for oysters lasts roughly from October to March, and mussels are also excellent during the colder months. Coming in January or February also means you will have the farmer all to yourself.
Five farmers who welcome you onto the raft and to the table
Most family-run farms in the bay offer organized tours with tastings. Always check prices and schedules in advance, as they depend on the weather and the number of guests.
1. Kuća Kamenica (Mali Ston)
One of the best-known addresses in the bay. The boat ride to the farm, an explanation of the entire farming cycle and a tasting of fresh oysters and mussels usually take about two hours. The approximate price of a tour with tasting ranges from around 30 to 50 euros per person.
2. Bota Šare (Mali Ston)
A restaurant and farm in one. Oysters arrive at the table a few hours after being harvested, and they are served alongside homemade wines from Pelješac. Book a table at least a day ahead, especially on weekends.
3. Villa Koruna (Mali Ston)
A family-run offering with an emphasis on tradition. Besides shellfish, fish soup and Pelješac cheese and prosciutto are often served here, making it a good choice for those who want a complete meal by the bay.
4. Uzgajalište Ostrea (Ston)
A smaller family farmer who organizes raft tours in small groups. It is ideal for those who want a more personal approach and more conversation about the craft itself.
5. Mali Ston Bay Tours (Mali Ston)
An organizer that combines a boat ride around the bay, a visit to the rafts and a tasting on the spot. A practical choice if you are arriving without a car or want someone else to plan the entire experience.
Tip: the names and services of farmers change from time to time, so before you arrive, call or send a message to confirm the date, the price and the language in which the tour is conducted.
What a day on the raft looks like
- Arrival: the meeting is usually early in the morning, when the sea is calmest.
- Boat ride: the rafts are reached in about ten minutes, and along the way the farmer explains how shellfish are "sown" onto the ropes.
- Harvesting: you watch as mussels or oysters are pulled out of the sea, and often you can take hold of the rope yourself.
- Tasting: the shellfish are opened on the spot and eaten raw, with lemon and a glass of white wine.
- Table: after that comes a hot meal, most often mussels buzara-style or grilled oysters.
What to eat and drink
Oysters are classically eaten raw, with just a drop of lemon, because their flavor here is best without additions. Mussels buzara-style, with garlic, white wine and parsley, are a traditional dish that has no equal with homemade bread. Pelješac plavac or the white pošip variety from Korčula and Pelješac goes excellently with them.
Don't forget dessert either. Ston rafioli, a traditional cake made with eggs, almonds and oranges, make an ideal end to a meal.
What else to see in Ston and the surrounding area
- The Walls of Ston: the longest preserved defensive wall in Europe, about five kilometers long. A walk along them in winter is peaceful and rewards you with a view of the bay.
- The Ston saltworks: among the oldest in Europe, and a visit reveals how salt has been produced in the same way for centuries.
- Pelješac: wine roads and taverns with plavac and dingač, half an hour's drive away.
- Beaches: in winter they are empty, so a walk by the sea in Brijesta or Zaton is a real rest for the mind.
Practical tips for visiting
- Clothing: it is always colder on the water than on land, so dress in layers and bring a windbreaker. Footwear with good non-slip soles is a must.
- Reservations: in winter farmers work with reduced capacity, so get in touch at least a few days in advance.
- Weather: in case of strong bura or jugo winds, tours may be canceled, so have a backup plan.
- Getting there: Mali Ston is about 60 kilometers from Dubrovnik, and the drive takes roughly an hour.
- Prices: oysters are usually charged per piece, generally around 1.50 to 2.50 euros, depending on size and location.
Where to stay
In winter, accommodation in Ston, Mali Ston and the surrounding area is more affordable than in summer, and apartment owners are often shellfish lovers themselves, so they happily give recommendations. For a longer stay, choose an apartment with a kitchen, because you will probably want to take home a bag of mussels. On BarbaBooking.com you can find apartments and rooms in Ston, Pelješac and Dubrovnik and compare offers before booking a weekend by the bay.
In closing
The Bay of Mali Ston in winter is not a place for hurrying. Here you eat slowly, talk with people who have been doing this work for generations, and drink wine while the fog slowly lifts from the water. If you are looking for an experience that cannot be bought in a souvenir shop, this is the right address.