Sometime around midnight, when the air on the waterfront cools and the first soft sound shimmers between the stone walls, something changes. Conversations fall quiet, glasses are set down on tables, and five or six men in shirtsleeves close their eyes and begin to sing. There are no amplifiers, no stage, just voices, stone and sea. This is the Dalmatian klapa, and in summer there is no better reason to stay up until dawn in Dalmatia.
Klapa singing was inscribed by UNESCO in 2012 on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, and rightly so: it is multipart a cappella singing born on the streets, in taverns and in town squares. Here are five places where you can experience it in its authentic atmosphere, along with practical tips for planning your visit.
What is a klapa and why is it worth hearing live
A klapa is a singing group, usually of five to ten members, that sings in multiple parts without instrumental accompaniment. The songs you will hear most often are love songs about the sea, fishermen and the homeland. We distinguish between traditional klapas, which sing with a minimum of arrangement, and festival klapas, which perform more complex compositions. Don't be surprised if, in the middle of a song, the silence in the square turns into communal singing: Dalmatians know the words by heart.
1. Omiš: home of the Festival of Dalmatian Klapas
If there is a capital of klapa song, it is Omiš. The Festival of Dalmatian Klapas has been held since 1967, and the main evenings are traditionally in July, on a stage in the town centre, beneath the cliffs of Mirabela. Tickets for the main evenings generally cost between 10 and 20 euros, and because of the high demand it is better to buy them in advance.
Tips for Omiš
- After the concert, stroll through the old town: klapas often continue singing informally in the narrow streets.
- For dinner, choose a konoba (tavern) by the Cetina River and try soparnik, a traditional Poljica pie made with Swiss chard and garlic.
- Omiš is an excellent base for rafting on the Cetina, so look for accommodation in the old town or in Ribnjak.
2. Split: the Peristyle, heart of Diocletian's Palace
There are few places in the world where song sounds the way it does under the arcades of the Peristyle. The acoustics of this Roman square seem made for voices, and during the summer, especially as part of the Split Summer Festival, klapa performances are held here regularly. Many are free, and the others charge only a symbolic fee.
Tips for Split
- Arrive around 9 p.m. and take a seat on the steps, since that is where you can hear best.
- After the singing, head down to Matejuška or the Riva for a late dinner, and choose fish from the daily offer.
- Accommodation prices in the centre are highest in summer, so book at least two to three months in advance.
3. Trogir: a midnight serenade in a stone labyrinth
Trogir's old town, also under UNESCO protection, offers something rare in summer: small-scale klapa performances in the square in front of the Cathedral of St. Lawrence, where the audience sits only a few metres from the singers. There are none of the crowds you find in larger cities, so the song feels almost intimate.
Tips for Trogir
- July and August are best, and you can check the performance schedule with the tourist board.
- For dinner, pick one of the konobas away from the main waterfront, where prices are consistently lower and portions larger.
- Private apartments on the nearby island of Čiovo are a more affordable option than accommodation in the old town itself.
4. Hvar: song under the starry sky of Pjaca
Hvar's main square, known as Pjaca, is one of the largest in Dalmatia, and evenings with klapa song there are part of the town's summer rhythm. Although Hvar is known for its nightlife, it is precisely the klapa evenings that show its authentic face. The singers usually gather by the Arsenal and the cathedral, and the space is large enough that even in August there is room to sit.
Tips for Hvar
- Avoid the peak season, from mid-July to mid-August, when prices and crowds are at their highest. June and early September offer the same atmosphere with less stress.
- Try gregada, Hvar's fish stew made from several kinds of fish, and local wines such as plavac mali or bogdanuša.
- For a quieter stay, consider accommodation in Stari Grad or Jelsa, from where you can always reach Pjaca easily.
5. Makarska: song on the waterfront beneath Biokovo
The Makarska waterfront, with Mount Biokovo as its backdrop, is one of the most picturesque settings for a klapa evening. In summer, performances are often held in the main square by the Church of St. Mark, and open-air klapa evenings are also part of the summer programme. The atmosphere is more relaxed than in the larger towns, and the audience is varied: from locals to tourists from all over Europe.
Tips for Makarska
- Admission is free at most performances, but it pays to arrive early to get a seat.
- With the singing, try Makarska rozata (a caramel custard dessert) and fresh shellfish from the nearby farms in the Mali Ston Bay.
- During the day, make use of Donja Luka beach or climb up to the Biokovo Skywalk for views of the islands.
When to go and how to prepare
The main season for klapa evenings is from June to September, and July offers the richest programme. For a calmer experience, choose the period from mid-June to early July or the beginning of September, when temperatures are more pleasant and accommodation prices are up to 30 percent lower.
- Book accommodation early: in July and August the best apartments are gone by March.
- Bring a light jacket: at night the wind can pick up by the sea, even in the middle of summer.
- Respect the singers: during performances, silence your phone and avoid talking.
- Plan your transport: public transport does not run after midnight, so arrange a taxi in advance or choose accommodation within walking distance.
Conclusion: sing along with them
Klapa song is not a tourist attraction to be watched from a distance. It is a shared evening that the audience sooner or later joins. Choose one of these five squares, book accommodation nearby and let the Dalmatian night carry you until dawn. Browse the apartment offers on BarbaBooking.com and find a place from which the song is just a short walk away.