High on the slopes of Velebit, where the bura wind has been polishing stone for millennia, silent witnesses of a forgotten era lie hidden. Stone water troughs, abandoned quarantine stations, and ruins of shepherds' dwellings tell the story of times when the journey to the sea took days, and every horse and mule had to pass strict health inspections before stepping toward the Adriatic ports.
Why Did Horse Quarantine Stations Exist?
In the 18th and 19th centuries, Velebit was not just a mountain – it was a natural border between the continental interior and the prosperous coastal region. Caravans loaded with grain, salt, wine, and textiles crossed over the mountain passes daily, but they couldn't simply enter the coastal towns.
The fear of infection, especially plague and other diseases ravaging Europe, forced Austrian authorities to establish a strict sanitary cordon. Every animal – horse, mule, donkey – had to spend a certain period in quarantine before receiving a passage permit to the sea. These waiting periods sometimes lasted up to 40 days!
It is precisely at these locations that we can find today the remains of stone water troughs, abandoned stables, and walls that once bustled with life, scents, and sounds of caravans.
5 Stone Water Troughs You Must Visit
1. Water Trough at Veliki Alan (1,412 m)
At the very pass of Veliki Alan, one of the most important crossings over Velebit, there is a monumental stone water trough carved into the living rock. The dimensions are impressive – nearly 3 meters in length and one meter deep. Caravan drivers would water their tired horses here before the final descent toward Karlobag.
Practical tip: You can reach Veliki Alan via a macadam road from Gospić (about 45 km, allow an hour and a half of driving). Bring enough water as there is no drinking water source at the pass, and the trough is dry today.
2. Oštarije Quarantine Station
Oštarije was a key point on the Theresian Road, the first proper road over Velebit built in 1784. Here stood an official quarantine station with several water troughs, a stable for about fifty horses, and a guardhouse.
Today, only the building foundations and two partially preserved water troughs remain, but the atmosphere is still palpable. Imagine what it looked like when about a hundred caravan drivers waited for their permits, brewed coffee over open fires, and exchanged news from afar.
Where to eat nearby: After your visit, stop by the tavern Lička kuća in Karlobag (15 km) for lamb under the baking bell and homemade potato salad. The price of a meal for two is around 50-60 euros.
3. Water Troughs in Štirovača
The Štirovača forest, known for its centuries-old black pine trees, hides several smaller water troughs scattered along the old caravan trail. These troughs are special because they were carved from a single piece of stone and transported to the location – a true construction feat for that era.
Štirovača is also ideal for those who want to combine history with nature. Marked hiking trails lead through the forest, and in winter, this is a popular spot for cross-country skiing.
4. Abandoned Station at Baške Oštarije
Baške Oštarije, situated at 924 meters above sea level, was the first station for caravans coming from the island of Pag and the coastal area. Here, a triple water trough is preserved – a rare example where three animals could drink simultaneously.
The location is easily accessible – an asphalt road passes right by the station remains, and there is a small parking area. From here, the view of the Velebit Channel and the islands serves as a reward for all the waiting that caravan drivers once endured.
Best time to visit: May or September, when temperatures aren't too high and the bura wind isn't too strong. Avoid July and August due to heat, and December and January due to snow.
5. Stone Trough Below Zavižan
The highest of all quarantine locations is found at nearly 1,600 meters, below the Zavižan meteorological station. This trough was never part of the official sanitary cordon, but it served shepherds and travelers crossing Velebit by shorter but more difficult routes.
The trough fills with melted snow and rainwater, so it is still functional even today during spring months. Hikers use it for refreshment, just as their ancestors did 200 years ago.
Gastronomy of the Velebit Hinterland
A visit to the quarantine stations would not be complete without tasting the local cuisine, which is inseparable from the caravan tradition. It was precisely the caravan drivers who brought many recipes from the sea to the mountains and vice versa.
What to Try?
- Velebit škripavac cheese – a hard sheep's cheese that was ideal for long journeys as it didn't spoil
- Dried meat and sausages – dried in the Velebit bura wind, still prepared according to old recipes
- Pole – a simple dish made from cornmeal that fed generations of travelers
- Lamb under the baking bell – today a true specialty, once food for special occasions
In Gospić, Senj, and Karlobag, there are several family restaurants that nurture this tradition. I especially recommend Restaurant Velebno in Gospić for authentic Lika stew and Konoba Nada in Senj for fresh seafood.
Where to Stay for Exploring Velebit
For a multi-day exploration of quarantine stations and Velebit caravan trails, the ideal base is in Karlobag or Senj. Both small towns offer the authentic atmosphere of a small coastal place, far from the crowds of popular destinations.
On the platform BarbaBooking.com, you can find apartments with views of Velebit that are ideal for a hiking-gastro trip. Accommodation prices range from 50 to 90 euros per night for a two-person apartment, depending on the season.
Alternatively, for those who want complete immersion in nature, the mountain hut on Zavižan offers basic accommodation at a price of 20 euros per person. Reservation is mandatory, especially on weekends.
Practical Information for Your Visit
How to get there: Via the A1 highway to Gospić, then local roads toward Karlobag or Senj. For some locations, an off-road vehicle or good hiking fitness is required.
What to bring: Hiking boots, water (minimum 2 liters per person), a warm layer of clothing (it can be cold on Velebit even in summer), a map or GPS device.
Guide: I recommend hiring a local guide for your first visit. The Velebit Mountaineering Society from Gospić organizes guided tours along the entire caravan route for 25 euros per person.
Conclusion: A Journey Through Time
The abandoned quarantine stations and stone water troughs on Velebit are not just historical artifacts – they are windows into a world that functioned completely differently from ours. A world where the journey to the sea was a real adventure, full of uncertainty, waiting, and camaraderie among travelers.
Today, when we can reach the sea from Zagreb in three hours by highway, it's worth stopping and imagining what it was like back then. Perhaps that's exactly what makes these locations so special – they remind us to slow down, to appreciate the journey as much as the destination.
And when, after a full day of exploration, you sit in a small tavern by the sea and order lamb with a view of Velebit, you'll understand why caravan drivers longed so much for that sea. Some things never change.