Carved deep into the cliffs of the Adriatic coast, hidden from view and forgotten for decades, the submarine bases of the former Yugoslav People's Army are now living a new life. These monumental tunnels, built during the Cold War as shelters for submarines and warships, have transformed into the most unusual adventure destinations in the Mediterranean.
Imagine: you're paddling a kayak through absolute darkness, the only light from your headlamp revealing concrete walls some twenty meters high. The silence is almost surreal, broken only by the quiet splash of paddles against the calm sea surface. This isn't a scene from an action movie – this is the reality awaiting you at five locations along the Croatian coast.
Why are these tunnels so special?
Yugoslav military doctrine was based on the concept of guerrilla warfare and hiding military resources from potential enemies. Between the 1950s and 1980s, enormous tunnels capable of hiding entire fleets of patrol boats and submarines were carved into the Dalmatian cliffs. Their construction was a strictly guarded state secret.
Today, more than thirty years after the dissolution of Yugoslavia, these facilities offer something you cannot experience anywhere else in the world – a blend of war history, natural beauty, and adventure tourism. The Croatian Adriatic has several of them, and five are open to visitors.
1. Vis – Submarine Shelter in Rogačić Bay
The island of Vis was a military zone until 1989, which paradoxically preserved it from mass tourism and concrete development. In Rogačić Bay on the northern side of the island, there is an impressive tunnel about 100 meters long, originally designed for hiding torpedo boats.
Practical information:
- Organized kayak tours depart from the town of Vis, duration approximately 3-4 hours
- Price ranges from 45 to 60 euros per person, including equipment
- Best period: May to October
- For diving, a permit and accompaniment by a licensed guide is required
Local tip: after the tour, stop by Roki's tavern in Komiža for authentic Vis pošip wine with Adriatic squid prepared under the peka bell.
2. Šolta – Šešula Tunnel
Just an hour by ferry from Split, on the peaceful island of Šolta, a lesser-known but equally fascinating tunnel hides in Šešula Bay. This facility served as a shelter for smaller warships and is now accessible to independent kayakers.
Practical information:
- Kayaks can be rented in the village of Stomorska (about 15 euros for half a day)
- Paddling to the tunnel takes approximately 45 minutes from Stomorska
- The tunnel is shorter (about 50 meters), ideal for beginners
- Bring a waterproof lamp – it's complete darkness inside
Šolta is ideal for a day trip from Split, but if you want the true experience of island tranquility, book accommodation and stay at least two nights. On the BarbaBooking platform, you'll find authentic stone houses and apartments with sea views.
3. Lastovo – Underground Base in Skrivena Luka
The name of the bay speaks for itself (Hidden Harbor). Lastovo is the most remote inhabited Croatian island, once the most strictly guarded military zone in Yugoslavia. The submarine shelter in Skrivena Luka is one of the best preserved on the entire Adriatic.
Practical information:
- Organized diving tours are offered by local diving centers
- PADI Open Water certification or equivalent is required
- Price for diving with full equipment: approximately 70-80 euros
- Kayak tours are organized on request for groups of minimum 4 people
Lastovo is not an island for a day trip – it takes four hours by ferry from Split to reach it. But this very isolation makes it special. Nights on Lastovo, thanks to minimal light pollution, offer the brightest starry sky in Croatia.
4. Brač – Tunnel in Milna
Milna on the western coast of Brač is known as one of the most beautiful natural harbors on the Adriatic. Less known is that nearby there is a tunnel that served as a shelter for torpedo boats.
Practical information:
- Kayak rental available in Milna from June to September
- The tunnel is partially collapsed, entry is possible only for the first 30 or so meters
- Combined with visiting surrounding bays makes an excellent half-day trip
- Price of organized tour: from 40 euros per person
Milna is the perfect base for exploring western Brač. Narrow streets, stone houses, and excellent restaurants like August make it ideal for a multi-day stay. Check accommodation options in Milna on BarbaBooking.com.
5. Kornati – Shelter on Lavsa
Kornati National Park, an archipelago of 89 islands, islets, and reefs, hides yet another military secret. On the island of Lavsa, there is an abandoned military base with an underground shelter that can be visited as part of diving expeditions.
Practical information:
- Available exclusively through organized diving tours from Murter or Biograd
- Advanced diving certification required due to depth and conditions
- Entrance fee for Kornati National Park not included in diving price (approximately 40 euros daily per person)
- Season: June to September
Diving in Kornati is already on the bucket list of every serious diver – water transparency reaches up to 40 meters, and marine life is exceptionally rich.
Before you go: what you need to know
These tunnels are not developed tourist facilities with lighting and marked paths. That's precisely their charm, but also a reason for caution.
Essential equipment:
- Waterproof headlamp (mandatory!)
- Kayak helmet (recommended)
- Dry bag for phone and documents
- Water shoes for wading in shallows
Safety tips:
- Never enter alone – always with company or a guide
- Check the weather forecast – sudden waves can be dangerous
- Respect warning signs – some parts of the tunnels are unstable
- Report your trip to someone on the mainland
More than adrenaline – a story worth remembering
Visiting these locations is not just an adventure. It's a journey through a concluded era, tangible proof of how much the world has changed in just a few decades. Tunnels that were built in anticipation of a devastating war now serve curious tourists and lovers of unusual experiences.
While paddling through dark corridors or diving along enormous concrete walls, it's hard not to think about the sailors who spent hours here waiting for orders that, fortunately, never came.
The Croatian Adriatic has a thousand reasons to visit – crystal-clear sea, beautiful beaches, excellent food. But little can compare to the feeling when you emerge from the darkness of a military tunnel into the dazzling Mediterranean sun. That's a moment you remember.
Find the perfect accommodation near these locations on BarbaBooking.com and start planning an adventure you never even imagined.