On the slopes of Učka, Risnjak, and the surrounding mountains of Kvarner, stone witnesses of a forgotten era lie hidden. Austro-Hungarian optical signal stations, erected in the mid-19th century, are today fascinating destinations for hikers seeking something more than merely conquering peaks. These abandoned towers combine history, adventure, and gastronomic delights of local konobas – an ideal combination for an unforgettable weekend on the northern Adriatic.
What were optical signal stations actually?
Before the advent of the telegraph, the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy relied on optical telegraphy – a system of visual signals transmitted from tower to tower using flags, mirrors, and light signals. The Kvarner area, as a strategically important point on the route to the sea, received a series of these stations between 1850 and 1870.
Each station had to have visual contact with at least two neighboring ones, which is why they were built on prominent peaks and ridges. This very position makes them perfect viewpoints today, offering views of the entire Kvarner Bay, from Istria to Rab.
5 optical towers worth visiting
1. Tower on Vojak – the rooftop panorama of Učka
At the very summit of Učka (1401 m), not far from the famous viewpoint, lie the remains of an optical station that controlled communication between Rijeka and the interior of Istria. The ascent from Poklon mountain hut takes about an hour and a half at a moderate pace.
Practical tips:
- Parking at Poklon (free, but arrive before 9 AM in summer)
- Bring at least 1.5 liters of water per person
- After the ascent, reward yourself at the Učka restaurant with homemade Istrian maneštra and fritaja with truffles
Accommodation in the vicinity of Lovran or Opatija is ideal for this trip – you can combine a hiking day with evening walks by the sea and dinner at one of the many konobas.
2. Orljak signal station above Mošćenička Draga
Less known but extremely atmospheric location. The Orljak tower (680 m) is accessible from Mošćenička Draga via a trail that winds through old chestnut groves. The ascent takes about two hours and passes by abandoned shepherd's dwellings – evidence of the once intensive pastoral life of this area.
Local secret: In spring, the slopes around Orljak are covered with wild asparagus. Locals pick them in the early morning hours, and you can try them in the konobas of Mošćenička Draga – most often with sunny-side-up eggs and homemade bread baked under the peka.
3. Ruins on Plešivica – view of two seas
From Plešivica (1657 m), the highest peak of Gorski Kotar, Austro-Hungarian signalmen could see both the Adriatic Sea and the interior toward Karlovac. Today, only the foundations of the station remain, but the view has remained equally spectacular.
How to get there:
- Easiest access from the village of Tuk Mrkopaljski (via hiking trail markings, about 3 hours)
- For more serious hikers: ridge traverse from Risnjak (7-8 hours)
- Essential equipment: windproof jacket, hiking boots, warm layer even in summer
After the trip, Delnice offers excellent restaurants with game dishes – venison medallions in blueberry sauce are a must-try.
4. Ivanščica tower above Novi Vinodolski
A less demanding ascent, ideal for families with children over eight years old. From Novi Vinodolski to the tower (482 m), the walk takes about an hour and fifteen minutes along a marked trail. The station is relatively well preserved, and children find the story of how soldiers once sent messages with light and flags particularly interesting.
Gastronomic bonus: Novi Vinodolski is known for its Žlahtina wines – local konobas serve it with prosciutto from Krk and škripavac cheese. After hiking, cool off with a swim at Povile beach, just about ten minutes' drive away.
5. Optical station on Vela Učka – the forgotten outpost
Few people know that besides the main peak of Učka, there is also Vela Učka (1339 m), actually a separate peak with its own signal station. The path from the village of Vela Učka through the abandoned villages of Mala and Vela Učka is one of the most atmospheric hiking tours in Kvarner.
Why it's special:
- You pass through villages that were abandoned in the 1960s
- Stone houses still stand, dishes sometimes still left on shelves
- The tower is almost untouched and offers shelter from the bora wind
For accommodation, I recommend nearby Lupoglav or the surrounding area – peaceful Istrian villages with authentic agritourism establishments where hosts still produce their own olive oil, wine, and prosciutto.
Best time to visit and practical tips
The optical towers of Kvarner are best visited from April to June and in September and October. In summer, the lower stations (Orljak, Ivanščica) are too hot for a comfortable ascent, while the higher ones (Plešivica, Vojak) can be crowded on weekends.
What to bring:
- Hiking map of Učka or Gorski Kotar (available in Rijeka, Nautica bookstore)
- Enough water – most routes have no springs
- Sandwich and fruit for a snack at the top
- Camera with good zoom for details of the ruins
Combining hiking and gastronomy
Kvarner is unique in that you can spend the morning on peaks above the clouds and the afternoon sitting by the sea with a plate of fresh fish. This combination of hiking challenges and gastro pleasures makes this region ideal for an active holiday.
Local konobas along hiking routes offer traditional dishes prepared according to recipes passed down through generations – from Istrian maneštra and fuži with truffles to Gorski Kotar lamb and kotlovina stew. Prices are still more affordable than on the coast: a hearty marenda for two rarely exceeds 30 euros.
Accommodation for hikers in Kvarner
For exploring the optical towers, it's ideal to stay in the interior – the Učka area, Gorski Kotar, or the hinterland of Novi Vinodolski. Apartments in these areas offer peace, authenticity, and significantly lower prices than on the coast. Many also offer homemade products for breakfast: honey, jams, fresh milk.
If you still prefer combining it with swimming, Opatija, Lovran, or Mošćenička Draga are perfect choices – the drive to the start of hiking trails is less than half an hour.
Conclusion
The Austro-Hungarian optical signal stations of Kvarner offer something we rarely find in modern tourism: history you can touch, silence you can hear, and views that take your breath away. Whether you're a serious hiker or just an occasional nature walker, these five locations will provide you with an unforgettable experience – and a perfect appetite for dinner at one of the local konobas.